In Lincoln Park, it can be hard for a restaurant to break out amongst the neighborhood’s pack of heavy-hitters. Yet, John’s Food and Wine has managed to distinguish itself — the bistro on Halsted Street in the former Nookies Too space has received national
recognition. Named Restaurant of the Year by Food & Wine, I had high expectations.
Since opening, John’s Food and Wine implemented a pay structure lauded as an egalitarian solution to an industry that often relies on tipping. The restaurant charges a flat 20 percent service fee on all bills, shared with the entire hourly team in both front and back of house. This structure reportedly helped both back and front of house hourly wage averages soar toward $35 per hour. On top of the structure, John’s has seemingly captured the hearts of diners through its seasonal rotating menu, emphasizing ingredients that are local and in-season.
The vibe
John’s employs walk-up ordering. The rotating menu is displayed on a giant letter board you read while rattling off your order to the host. I felt a bit pressured to make my choices as a line behind me began to form. This format severed a rather important rapport-building I realized to be necessary between server and diner — with whom will I rehearse my banter? Or exchange the routined pleasantries of requesting just a couple more minutes to finalize choices? It felt a bit all or nothing — a touch rushed.
Once seated, staff at every level were well-versed in the night’s offerings. However, the interactions were dispersed across multiple runners, all who I did not want to keep too long with menu questions for fear of delaying their impending kitchen pick-up. In place of a full dining experience formed in its own right, John’s Food and Wine became a backdrop to the pleasant company I shared with my dining partner.
What to order
- The lobster salad with melted leek aioli, and “millions of herbs” ($34) was a great starting point into the meal. The melted leek aioli was substantially creamier than you might encounter with a standard butter and lobster combination. Pro-tip: Make sure you situate those herbs (mint or dill specifically) on every spoonful.
- The murusaki sweet potato brulee ($22), which I expected to be sweet and almost candied, was a charred and smoky surprise to the meal.
- I initially lamented my decision to just order the small size of the beef-fat fries ($11 for small, $16 for large), but each golden crisp was packed with umami and richness. The fries are filling enough that I’d lean toward the smaller order unless you’re only pairing it with one or two other dishes.
- The desserts were the stars of the night — as a recent convert to the blueberry-corn flavor complex, the sundae with corn cake, corn ice cream, and blueberry compote ($15) did not disappoint. The buttery corn flavor intermingling with the tart blueberries was a delight.
Take note
I was most excited for the mafalde pasta with braised lamb ($32), but I would opt in for another main course upon a future visit. My dining partner and I found the lamb was overwhelmingly gamey and the ricotta cheese added an unwelcomed sourness to the dish.
Insider tip
To avoid an awkward ordering experience of deliberation while a line forms behind you, come to the host/ordering stand well-researched. Check out the menu the day of your reservation, eye your favorites, and have your inquiries about the food prepared.
The takeaway
John’s Food and Wine is a solid option for the area, especially under the premise of rotating and varying menu options. I would return for a catch-up with a friend or an intimate small group dinner, where the company is the priority and yearning for a full-service dining experience might take a back seat. I’d prime with a few ideas about what exactly to order at the host stand, too — I already have my eye on the pan-roasted branzino with smoked carrot beurre blanc and a large order of beef fat fries.
