The editors at Eater Los Angeles dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Chicken cold noodles from Steep in Chinatown
A heat wave in L.A.
calls for cold noodles and very strong air conditioning, both of which Steep, a modern teahouse in Chinatown, has. The chicken cold noodles arrive in a wide bowl studded with threads of carrot, cucumber, cabbage, and chicken breast to toss in peanut sauce. While some peanut noodles tread toward sweet territory, Steep’s remain steadfastly savory, with a sharp punch of vinegar and a side of rich chicken stock for sipping. Add on some chewy tofu tossed in garlic sauce to make it more of a meal for two, or go for a side of the housemade pickles, which comes with radish, cabbage, and cucumber. On the tea side, the guava oolong tea swimming with oolong tea jelly has been a recent favorite, or stick with a freshly brewed white tea, available hot or cold. 970 N. Broadway, Suite 112, Los Angeles, CA 90012. — Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Crab cake from the Pines Modern Steakhouse at the Yaamava’ Resort & Casino in Highland, California
As someone who travels regularly between Los Angeles and Palm Springs (and other inland points), I’ve driven by Yaamava’ Resort and didn’t realize it. I did notice the billboards for its concert venue throughout the region, with major talent like Janet Jackson, Mariah Carey, and the Killers at an intimate 3,000-person-capacity concert venue. When I hopped on a 70-mile drive to see the Wu-Tang Clan, dinner was at the resort’s the Pines Modern Steakhouse, where cocktails arrive ice-cold and potent, the steaks darkly pink and tender. The crab cake starter impressed me the most, though: its lumps of crab are generous and decadent, while tossed arugula, frisée, and fennel salad give it a refreshing bite. Chef Alejandro Placeres’s Ritz Cracker crust, though? That’s a touch that made me want to order a second for the table, which I will, on my 2027 visit to witness another stellar performance. 777 San Manuel Boulevard, Highland, CA, 92346. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Enchiladas verdes from Los Compadres in Norwalk, California
I know everyone is complaining about the heat wave in October, but I took it as an opportunity to drive down to Orange County and enjoy a local’s summer at the beach. And nothing satisfies more after hours of swimming and basking in the sun than a margarita. On the trek home, I stopped into Los Compadres in Norwalk, a family-run restaurant opened in 1987 with two additional locations in Long Beach. Los Compadres are known for massive molcajetes with surf-and-turf combinations but, since I was dining alone, I ordered a plate of enchiladas verdes. Enchiladas arrived packed with shredded chicken encased in fresh tortillas, a tangy and mildly spicy verde sauce poured on top. The red rice was well-seasoned and the refried beans creamy and cheesy; superlative versions of these side dishes that usually feel like an afterthought. Of course, we came for the margaritas, too: I ordered the tamarita, a tamarind margarita with a chile candy straw that struck a balance between salty, sweet, and sour. I want to return to Los Compadres with a group to try their molcajetes and get deeper into the margarita menu. 11600 Rosecrans Avenue, Norwalk, CA 90650. — Kat Thompson, audience editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Hot Hon3y Pepperoni pie from @stra Pizza
Over the weekend, I had one of the best pizzas I’ve eaten in years in a place I absolutely did not expect to find it: an underground, open-air dance floor. On Saturday night, I stopped by a friend’s DJ set at one of Canary Sound Werk’s parties, where the killer lineup and excellent sound system were reason enough to stick around — but then we found the pizza: @stra Pizza, whose co-founders include an alum of Grá, was dishing out superb Neapolitan-style pies on site. The Hot Hon3y Pepperoni had the almost artfully blistered, leopard-spotted crust rarely seen anywhere but the best pizza spots in Italy and Tokyo: airy and chewy with an ideal hit of char. A light slick of summery San Marzano sauce rested beneath stretchy discs of melted mozzarella and those little cupped pepperoni slices that crisp around the edges and fill with rendered fat — extremely nostalgic for anyone raised on ’90s pizza. A drizzle of honey brought sweetness and heat, while a generous hit of flaky salt balanced the flavors. I made my friend swap slices with me so I could also try the mushroom pie, a white pizza topped with tender oyster mushrooms, parsley, thyme, and olive oil. It was an earthy and savory counterpart to the salty-sweet pepperoni pie, and just as good. No joke: This was the best and most memorable pizza I’ve had in years and I wasn’t even in a restaurant. — Hilary Pollack, Eater deputy editor
