Chef Abraham Nuñez’s Chicano Nuevo began as a pop-up serving Ensenada-style Mexican food throughout San Francisco. His brand of fish tacos and tamales became popular with locals as Nuñez popped up in places like the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location,
a well-regarded residency at the former Broken Record in the Excelsior, and one-day stints at Old Devil Moon, El Rio, and Casements. The menu is composed of what Nuñez calls “border town street food,” befitting his time growing up in San Diego and Tijuana. It also doesn’t hurt that Nuñez has spent time in San Francisco kitchens such as State Bird Provisions, Buddy, and (now-closed) Cockscomb.
Now, with partner Courtney Fujita, Nuñez has opened a restaurant in Bernal Heights. Fujita’s experience in bartending, having worked with the Future Bars group for nine years — the team behind Bourbon and Branch, Pagan Idol, and others — and local wine bars 20 Spot and Wildhawk, pairs well with Nuñez, who has his own bartending experience to brag about. The couple hit some bumps with opening, but now diners can see the full expression of Nuñez’s food in an intimate space.
The vibe
The Chicano Nuevo dining room is awash in light-colored wood tables and white walls, all against the refurbished terrazzo flooring. The street-facing windows are covered with floor-to-ceiling drapes, and window gels in blue, orange, and yellow transmit beachy Baja vibes as the sun sets outside. The space feels modern, yet cozy, with a 70s-ish soul playlist in the background. Tableware also skews modern, with wooden, stone, and ceramic plates brought in by the course, and gold flatware.
What to order
- Nuñez serves a six-course dinner for $95, plus tax and gratuity, that changes throughout the year. For the opening menu, diners get a parade of Chicano Nuevo hits, including the crowd-favorite Baja fish taco. It’s one of the best fish tacos I’ve ever had, no joke; the fish remained tender and evenly cooked, while maintaining that craggy, crisp fried exterior that fish taco dreams are made of. Add on some pickled onions and shredded red cabbage atop the blue corn tortilla, and it’s a bewitching taco. The surprise stunner of the course (besides the fish) is the addition of a salmon and shrimp consomé, a sour-ish broth reminiscent of the Filipino soup sinigang. Nuñez explained that in Mexico, at the seafood trucks, a complimentary consomé is often given out while waiting for orders.
- The hamachi tostada is a play on flavors and textures, from the crunch of the tostada and thinly sliced cucumbers and radish to the limey guacamole that serves as the base of the dish. The hamachi is dressed in the restaurant’s house umami mix, and the addition of caper aioli and fried capers gave each bite tang. It’s served with sriracha-roja sauce that packs smoky heat without being too overwhelming. Burnt scallion powder offers visual and flavor texture to the overall dish.
- I haven’t met a restaurant cornbread/cake I didn’t like, and the corn cake at Chicano Nuevo is no exception. The corn cake comes studded with pieces of kernels and a lightly-seared bottom, served with a compound lime butter and a small hit of caviar. Diners dress the bites themselves, and the butter slides right onto the warm bite.
- The Wu-Tang Flan is another classic Chicano Nuevo dish, with the flan shaped into that distinctive Wu-Tang “W.” Nuñez’s spin on the Mexican dish incorporates Hennessey and Coke into the flan, which gives the dessert a deeper caramel flavor. It’s accompanied by fresh whipped cream dressed in some citrus zest. What can I say? Wu-Tang is for the children.
The drinks
Alcohol is on pause for the time being, so that means Nunez and Fujita lean on nonalcoholic drinks, such as a trio of agua frescas ($12 each) offered at a recent dinner. Mine leaned more “medicinal” with carrot, raspberry, ginger, and more, with hibiscus turning the drink a summertime shade of pink and the ginger offering some bite. My dining partner ordered the agua de tomate fresca, which offered a refreshing, mellow tomato taste and comes with a house tomato chip garnish.
Insider tip
Pay close attention to the specials. Here, it almost reads more “secret menu,” where sidelined items from the regular Chicano Nuevo repertoire can live once again. At my dinner, the much-loved tamale negro ($22) was the add-on, featuring sherry-braised lengua, with cheese pull-inducing smoked Gouda. Squid ink gives the tamale its signature, all-black look with pickled jalapeños and crema, for a study in visual contrast and flavors. Let the team guide you: Fujita shared that this is a crowd favorite that we should really try, and she was open to letting my table of two share a tamal. (WORTH IT.)
