The editors at Eater Los Angeles dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Cortado and cold brew tonic from Loto in Echo Park
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The heat index has
mercifully dropped a little, meaning it’s a nice time to go to the serene new Microenterprise Home Kitchen Operation (MEHKO) coffee shop Loto in Echo Park, where I recently had an excellent cortado and a very fun lemony cold brew tonic called La Tormenta. Walk in through the front gate and follow the gravel path to find a backyard oasis of terraced concrete dotted with drought-tolerant flora and a handful of cafe tables along a smooth wall-length bench. A high fence and flowing fabric tarp insulate the space from the eastern edge of the legendary halfpipe portion of Baxter Street. Home and business owner Julian Scharman makes the coffee, pulling shots and pouring cortados in beautifully wabi-sabi ceramic cups that he made himself, intentionally smaller than standard size to enforce a tighter milk to espresso ratio, which allows the house coffee beans — single origin, high altitude, washed process from Chiapas, Mexico — to speak clearly. There’s matcha too, of course, as well as a slow bar pour over situation which requires advance reservation. In a mostly quiet stretch of the neighborhood (quiet when skaters and teenage e-biking daredevils aren’t bombing that hill, at least), Loto feels like a lovely surprise. I grew up a block away from this home; in many ways, an enterprise like this would have been unlikely in the Echo Park of my childhood. And yet, somehow, a home cafe where neighbors and guests can pop in and sit a while in the backyard, chatting, sipping from homemade ceramics, feels like it carries forward the community spirit I remember. 2056 Lake Shore Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90039. — Ben Mesirow, Eater travel editor
Ensalada Griega at Chainsaw in Melrose Hill
During a heatwave, the colder the food the better, like the ensalada Griega at too-cute cafe Chainsaw in Melrose Hill. Though the sidewalk’s usually sprawling with tables and chairs, recent road construction meant everything had to be enjoyed in takeout boxes. That didn’t detract from this Greek salad rendition, which arranges chilled pluot and nectarines, crunchy cucumber, sliced kalamata olives, and paper-thin shallots under hefty pieces of crumbled feta. In addition to the bright vinegary dressing, the aromatic oregano bound the dish together, served with a banana leaf to remind you of owner and chef Karla Subero Pittol’s Venezuelan heritage. For the very ample portion to be $12 and brimming with market-fresh produce made me realize the full effect of the quietly luxurious food Subero Pittol churns out in such a tiny space. Next year, she plans to debut a next-door wine bar that will further cement Chainsaw into a neighborhood mainstay, pairing dishes like this salad and arepas with coffee drinks by day and wine by night. 5022 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038. — Matthew Kang, correspondent, Eater
Duck breast with Champagne grapes and miso corn at Electric Bleu in Mar Vista
Following a year of almost visits, I finally found myself at Electric Bleu, the corner-perched California bistro in Mar Vista, for an inaugural meal. The restaurant’s duck breast, originally on the a la carte slate and now an offering on its $79 tasting menu, captured my imagination from before I even had it: something about perfectly seared duck breast streaked through some sort of seasonal plummy compote always appeals to me. The duck, encircled by a laurel wreath of Champagne grapes and braised walnuts, lived up to my hope for it, made even better when supported by the restaurant’s best side: a ramekin of bubbling charred corn whipped with miso yogurt and shaved mimolette cheese that pairs just as well with poultry as it does with a medium-rare steak. The best way to experience Electric Bleu is through the tasting, but just be sure not to sleep on that infatuating corn side. 3523 S. Centinela Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90066. — Nicole Fellah, Eater editorial manager
Fried shrimp and grits at the Serving Spoon in Inglewood
Shrimp and grits have always been a personal favorite of mine, but after a decade of seeking the traditional Southern dish, I began to rarely feel compelled to order it. Until settling in at the Serving Spoon over the weekend, when my charming server recommended the weekend special: deep-fried shrimp, ground chicken sausage, and gravy pooled over creamy grits. It has everything you need for a substantial breakfast or lunch with savory, salty shrimp that provides a slightly crisp bite atop a layer of spiced ground chicken sausage, all surrounded by beef gravy. Savoring each contrasting layer sprinkled with cheddar kept my head in the bowl until it was empty. Note: this dish is only available Friday through Sunday. 1403 Centinela Avenue, Inglewood, CA, 90302. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Figgy jin xuan oolong tart from Pinecone in Alhambra
I feel like I never truly had a fruit tart until I visited new fruit tart specialist, Pinecone, in Alhambra. Yes, I’ve enjoyed the standard vanilla creme tart situation topped with berries and sliced mango before, but Pinecone’s tarts exist on an entirely different level. The crust base, made from Tehachapi Sonoran grain, arrives sturdy and delightfully nutty — a nice contrast to the luxurious fillings nestled inside. It’s hard to pick a favorite tart from Pinecone but the figgy jin xuan oolong tart took me by surprise: its oolong custard tastes pleasantly floral while fluffy fig leaf chantilly cream provides an earthy aroma. Ripe, sweet figs, halved to show their jewel-like interior, crown each tart. Larger tarts at Pinecone do feel steeply priced at $15, but keep in mind that you are paying for an edible work of art. 116 W Main St, Alhambra, CA 91801. — Kat Thompson, audience editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
