After making some of the best barbecue in the city at Federalist Pig and creating a fried-everything sensation at Honeymoon Chicken, chef Rob Sonderman has pivoted to the rotisserie when he opened Little Engine in Eastern Market this year. The bright,
neon mint-colored corner spot is churning out whole birds for hungry families in suburban Capitol Hill, and there are also a few specials, including ridiculously large taquitos stuffed with chile-filled chicken tinga and a flavorful slow-roasted lamb pita that I’m still dreaming about.
What to order
- Obviously, you should order the rotisserie chicken plate (in quarter, half, or whole sizes) specifically with Hazel’s Magic Dust, a smoky and sweet dry rub named after Sonderman’s daughter. He doesn’t skimp on the sides, with even my $11 quarter chicken order coming with six huge corn-dotted hush puppies (also tossed in that addictive rub).
- The wraps are packed with greens, delivering a whole salad in a spicy cabbage crunch wrap drenched in peanut dressing. The same goes for a Caesar salad with tortilla croutons. Fried mushrooms upgrade these simple salads for vegetarian diners.
- The order of three chicken tenders somehow stays super crispy, even after a walk home or delivery. They can easily be a meal (for only $9) and have 11 different options for seasoning (the same ones for the wings). The wide-ranging selection includes lemon pepper, sticky Sichuan sauce, and a guava glaze, but my recent favorite was the sweet and spicy cherry mumbo sauce, a playful take on a D.C. staple.
- Sonderman is also serious about sauces. Don’t forget to order at least two on the side: The jalapeño-lime dressing is a beloved choice that seems to pair with everything, and I also enjoyed the fresh herb-filled ranch.
The vibe
Sonderman built Little Engine for quick family weekday meals, with huge picnic tables inside and out and easy pickup options for parents on their way home. But you’ll also see big groups of young adults having a chill dinner, taking advantage of the wide selection of canned cocktails, beers (including some local favorites), and wines in the beverage fridge that are all under $10.
Insider tip
Market-goers have been going crazy for the weekend-only brunch burritos, made California-style with crispy wedge fries, marinated steak, scrambled eggs, melted Oaxacan cheese, and plenty of jalapeño crema. They’re available every Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
