Alta Adams recently went through a months-long metamorphosis, closing from February to May of this year and emerging as a restaurant reimagined. The interior was refreshed while the California Soul menu that put chef Keith Corbin on the map got an infusion
of new dishes and inspiration. Corbin told Eater that Alta, “still [has] Southern aspects here,” but the menu is no longer “just based around the same 10 to 15 dishes everyone knows.” Instead, Corbin used his soul cooking chops to shape a hyperseasonal menu influenced by his travels and the different communities of Los Angeles with nods to Mexican, Nigerian, Tunisian, and Japanese cuisines. Whether that be serving mole alongside his duck dish or using miso and koji caramel, the new Alta is an homage to Keith Corbin’s experiences and how he witnesses Los Angeles.
What to order
- The black-eyed pea salad is a crash-course in playful textures with salty pops of meaty ham hock against the nuttiness of the beans. A tangle of fresh cilantro and thinly sliced Fresno chiles provides lightness while tongue-tingling lime dressing ties the whole dish together. This is a side dish that feels like a main focus.
- Melon salad is a seasonal summer dish that may come off the menu in fall and winter months, but any time it is available, get it. Shaved ribbons of cucumber dance around charred cantaloupe that further accent the melon’s sweetness. All of it sits upon a cloud-like feta cream, with sprinkles of pistachios that provide crunch.
- Smoky, suya-spiced bone marrow arrives with pillowy flatbreads, ideal for soaking up sweet bacon jam and roasted bone marrow. Although the dish feels on the richer side, an herbaceous cilantro salad provides levity.
- From the flame-grilled section, I tried the steak paired with fire-roasted cabbage. While the steak landed at a juicy medium-rare, I did find the dish to be heavy-handed on salt. Reprieve could not be found in the charred cabbage, which was also too saline, but it did come glazed in fiery harissa and miso and used a welcomed tahini and labneh cream that provided nuttiness and much needed sharpness.
The vibe
Alta on a buzzy Friday night feels sexy and inviting. The lights get turned down low and there’s a palpable hum in the dining room with friend groups chattering and dates unfolding. During Alta’s closure, the dining room was revamped with plush new banquette seating, a refinished bar with custom barstools, and artwork by eclectic Black artists. The result makes Alta a place you want to linger in; order another glass of wine and stay for dessert.
Insider tip
Request seating in the main dining room so you can watch chef Keith Corbin at work and witness the attention to detail that passes through every dish.
