Here’s the scene at Ètra on a Saturday night: candlelit room, a groove-filled playlist that evolved as the evening progressed, high ceilings, burnt terracotta walls, and 65 intimate seats packed with an enthusiastic and hungry crowd. After a few glasses
of mineral-rich wines, a devastatingly fresh tuna crudo, and a pork chop grilled over binchotan charcoal, Ètra has become one of my best Los Angeles meals this year.
Chef Evan Algorri and Andrew Lawson opened their popular restaurant in 2023 with great fanfare, but things have changed over the years. Though Los Angeles–born, the duo came up in Michelin-starred kitchens in New York. Over time, they shifted their service standards, spent hours thinking about what Los Angeles wants from a restaurant, and slowly figured out what Ètra needed to be. Ètra is that restaurant now: ideal for date night, an intimate time with friends, or even a celebratory milestone. But one thing is certain: the busy Melrose Hill spot keeps regulars returning for meals that impress the entire table.
Twice-a-week visits to the farmers’ market allow the seasons to drive what Algorri cooks, while challenging staff (most of whom have been at Ètra since its opening) to learn more. The restaurant recently became approved for an ABC license and will introduce a new cocktail menu in the coming weeks or months by Thomas Eslinger of Republique. The wine and food menu appears familiar to other Italian restaurants in the region, but the execution makes Ètra stand out in a crowded scene. Crusty garlic bread sops up excess sugo from meatballs. Spaghetti al limone lands on the table like sunlight piercing through an overcast sky. Nothing here feels overly precious or formal, which is why the experience remains comfortable and exciting.
What to order
- The heaping chicories salad gets simply prepared with black pepper and a healthy dose of anchovies, full of crisp bitter greens balanced out by the saltiness of the fish. Have it with grilled prawns, whose ‘nduja sauce sneaks up on you in the best way, full of Calabrian chile peppers and with sizeable crustacean heads that must have every bit sucked out of them.
- Tuna crudo has a Calabrian-inspired salsa macha that also packs a bit of heat. The tuna’s freshness is unmatched, making it one of the best crudos in town.
- Expect rotating pastas when visiting. In June, the Pacific rock crab tagliolini came dotted with miniature datterini tomatoes and crispy breadcrumbs for a nice textural contrast.
- My server insisted on the pork chop as the farmers’ market haul brought back nectarines at the beginning of stone fruit season. Binchotan charcoal makes a lovely touch for the regenerative meat and for the nectarine, thinly sliced zucchini, and fennel.
- Leave room for the always satisfying and served warm sticky toffee pudding. My server also recommended panna cotta, which can be paired with a fortified vermouth naturale dessert wine. I’ll try it next time.
The vibe
With a handful of chairs on a patio under heat lamps, the outside dining area feels warm and inviting year round. Inside, most of the crowd was casually dressed, sitting shoulder to shoulder on a romantic night.
Insider tip
Pull into the driveway for the valet, or you’ll miss it.
