The Korean barbecue scene in Los Angeles has seen some new players in the higher end genre (AB Steak and Daedo come to mind), but Seogwan by Yellow Cow is potentially the most compelling. Essentially a Koreatown outpost of Gardena’s Yellow Cow Korean Barbecue,
owner Monica Kim partnered with hallowed Seoul-based noodle shop Seogwan to bring true-to-style Pyongyang naengmyeon to Los Angeles. The duo of cold North Korean buckwheat noodles with upscale Korean barbecue has certainly resonated with Angelenos as Seogwan packs in crowds nightly for well-marbled slices of galbi, halmoni-worthy banchan, and unmissable side dishes in a sleek dining room. Expect to shell out a significant amount for the experience — at least $100 per person — but it’s arguably more affordable than a flight to Seoul.
What to order
- Whether it’s your first or hundredth time trying naengmyeon — cold Korean buckwheat noodles served in a chilled beef broth or tossed in a sweet-spicy gochujang sauce — you’re going to want to try Pyongyang naengmyeon, which is easily the most famous North Korean dish in the world. Seogwan by Yellow Cow’s preparation stays true to the traditional preparation: gently simmered broth barely kissed with the essence of beef surrounding a tightly woven ball of freshly pressed buckwheat noodles. It’s then topped with a light garnish of sliced beef, radish, a rolled egg omelet, and aromatics. Try the broth first, and imagine a sterile Pyongyang restaurant featuring a framed image of the dearly departed leader Kim Il-Sung. A bottle of konbu-infused vinegar packed with umami arrived with the order; servers recommend pouring it over noodles just before slurping.
- Gol-dong naengmyeon is a vegetarian’s dream, employing the same organic buckwheat noodles but sitting dry in a bibimbap-style assemblage of sliced radish, cooked mushrooms, and cucumbers. The ingredients get tossed with nutty perilla oil, complemented by toasted perilla seeds, and served in a golden metal bowl that conjures warm summer evenings in 19th-century rural Korea.
- One of the meat combinations should do well for those wanting table-top barbecue. Set C brings prime brisket slices, rib-eye, beef skirt, and both unmarinated and marinated galbi (short rib), plus a bubbling stone cauldron of either kimchi or doenjang jjigae (stew) for about $200. Expect tender, fatty pieces that get nicely seared. Note: the ventilation at Seogwan is a bit behind other high-end Korean barbecue spots in Koreatown, so dress accordingly. The pork set is a more affordable option at $115, and should feed three hungry adults with pork belly, spicy pork bulgogi, and pork cheek.
Best for
Korean barbecue aficionados who want to escape the bustle of Park’s BBQ or graduate from all-you-can-eat spots; hot days when the prospect of cold noodle soup sounds like the ideal relief; work dinners where everyone’s going to get loose with soju, beer, and grilled beef.
Insider tip
Budget seekers should come to Seogwan for lunch when naengmyeon and single-meat combinations get priced between $28 and $38. The crispy mung bean pancake is one of the best versions of this classic dish in Los Angeles. There’s no dedicated kids’ menu, but most children will gobble up the onban ($20) — warm rice in a large bowl of soup with either tender pork or beef slices on top.
The takeaway
Los Angeles’s Korean barbecue situation has been fairly stagnant the last few years, but Seogwan by Yellow Cow injects energy with impressive Pyongyang naengmyeon and prime-grade beef cooked tableside, plus a rotating parade of seasonal banchan that makes this a worthy addition to Koreatown’s restaurant scene.
