New York has always been a steakhouse town, but in recent years, the city has doubled down on these white-tableclothed restaurants and their casual cousin, the tavern, especially from people outside of New York City. And the best of those comes from an Argentine
restaurateur. Pablo Rivero, known for his Michelin-starred Don Julio and El Preferido in Buenos Aires, made his American debut with Graciela in the West Village over the summer. His new Argentine tavern (named after his mother) stands out among the glut of steakhouses and taverns opening in the city, thanks to off-the-charts hospitality and great live-fire-cooked meats.
What to order
- I don’t know what Graciela will do when it’s no longer tomato season, because the Un Tomate ($23.00) showcases the fruit in a simple way. The giant center slice of the tomato sits in a peppery tomato sauce that’s very gazpacho-like — it’s fresh and spicy.
- I adored the empanada filled with sweet cheese and corn kernels ($14). I also dipped it into the soupiness of the Un Tomato.
- I don’t regret going with my server’s recommendation of the entrana ($56), the 10-ounce skirt steak from South Dakota. The medium-rare slab is bloody and springy, cooked on the parrilla grill. It came with sides of dry-aged and regular chimichurri, but honestly, the meat was so good, it didn’t need any accoutrements.
- The Milanesa Napolitana ($74 for the full size) is a chicken Parm-meets-fancy steak, all in one dish. The pounded-thin beef is breaded and topped with mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil — it’s comforting and bright.
- The buffalo milk ice cream with cherries was a deeply rich and creamy way to end the meal. Likewise, the flan was creamy and eggy.
What to drink
I started with the enjoyable Pie de Montana ($19), a variation on a martini with gin, vermouth, and fino sherry. For the rest of the meal, I stuck with the two lighter red wine recommendations: the lightly bold Viejas Tintas, a bonarda field blend from San Juan, Argentina winery El Montanista; followed by slightly spiced Matas Alta by Bodega Cerron in Spain, a monastrell wine.
Insider tip
I was able to order half-portions of my entrees if you ask nicely and the kitchen isn’t overwhelmed.
