In many ways, Qua fits right in with KEI Concepts’ prolific portfolio of Orange County restaurants. It shares the group’s three-letter naming convention (“qua” means to overcome in Vietnamese), a Fountain Valley address, and a massive crowd-pleasing menu.
However, Qua’s Heritage Wall — a collection of weathered black-and-white family photos in the foyer — and its origin story printed inside the slickly designed menu reveal that Qua is chef and founder Viet Nguyen’s most earnest restaurant yet. Spanning 9,000 square feet with soaring 15-foot ceilings, the 190-seat restaurant brings a slice of Chợ Lớn — Ho Chi Minh City’s historic Chinatown — to Little Saigon. Nguyen’s grandmother, Vũ Thị Lan, may have inspired the restaurant’s ethos, but don’t expect a menu of homestyle dishes; instead, Nguyen uses his lineage to anchor an exploration of “contemporary Chinese cuisine.” The cross-regional lineup serves Beijing duck alongside Sichuan fried chicken cartilage, Cantonese dim sum, and Chinese American General Tso’s chicken wings, among others. In less experienced hands, this kind of culinary hopscotching can underwhelm or overwhelm. Fortunately, Nguyen knows his audience and his capacity — and delivers an ambitious dining experience that consistently exceeds expectations.
What to order
- It’s all about family-style dining at Qua, so come in with a group that’s game to share. Start with an array of cold and hot appetizers. The Sichuan beef tendon and chile surf clam bring tongue-numbing heat, while the chile crunch burrata served with homemade, freshly fried Chinese doughnuts hits all the rich, sweet, and spicy notes.
- Take advantage of Qua’s all-day dim sum and snag some chicken feet, barbecue pork puff pastries, and har gow for the table. The “crispy shrimp red rice roll,” a red-hued riff on traditional cheung fun, swaps whole shrimp for farce and layers in a fried wheat wrapper for crunch.
- For pure comfort, get an order of Qua’s crab roe noodles. The viscous sauce, full of crab roe and meat, feels reminiscent of Vietnamese súp măng cua (asparagus crab soup). Pickled cabbage, marinated wood ear mushrooms, and a pour of vinegar appear on the side for balance.
- A trio of Portuguese egg tarts — plain, salted egg yolk, and black truffle — make for a savory-tinged dessert. For a more traditional sweet finish, the duo of fruity Taiwanese shaved snow fits the bill.
What to drink
Qua’s cocktail menu manages to be just as memorable as its cuisine, offering a drink for every mood. Fruity refreshment comes by way of the fizzy, pisco-fueled Melon Ball and the tropical Ode to Cho Lon made with tequila and cachaça. For something bolder, the White Rabbit with mezcal and the Taiwanese Old Fashioned deliver a balanced, spirit-forward punch. Two spirit-free cocktails are also on hand for those refraining from alcohol.
Insider tip
Qua’s weekends-only afternoon tea service launched in September. The menu ($45 per person) includes a smattering of sweet and savory dishes, including egg tarts, black sesame cookies, barbecue pork puff pastries, and tea egg sandwiches, served on traditional three-tiered stands. A pared-down menu for children costs an additional $10. Reservations are encouraged.
