Four years ago, aspiring pizzaiolo William Joo opened a small Tokyo-influenced Neapolitan-style pizzeria in Pico-Robertson with grand ambitions of making it the best pizza in Los Angeles. One could argue he’s succeeded given Pizzeria Sei’s passionate
following, multiple awards, and strong enough business that Joo and his partner Jennifer So could expand to a splashy new Palms location in June 2026. So far, getting a reservation at the new Pizzeria Sei feels next to impossible with seats available only seven days out and tables snatched up within minutes. (If you feel like you’re waiting to get into PST in Tokyo, you’re not far off.) Part of the hype comes from a rabid fanbase that enjoys the au courant wave of Tokyo-style pies, wafu pasta, and more. The other part comes from Joo’s more thoughtful pizza omakases, launched in Pico-Robertson, which show his evolution away from the Tokyo-Neapolitan pies that made his career. The original location, renamed Sei Pizza Bar, now offers only walk-in bar seating, takeout, and delivery, while the Sei flagship slings two new styles: baked and fried montanara and light-as-air scrocchiarella.
What to order
- Start with pickleball-sized corn croquettes, craggy and golden brown, that get filled with warm corn ricotta and topped with soft fior di latte cheese. Then pull apart fried orbs of tomato carnaroli rice supplì, dressed with fried basil and vodka sauce. Both fritters do a terrific job of whetting the palate for more carbs, like a Bloomin’ Onion would at Outback but Italianized to the max.
- Tart pickled giardiniera provides a punchy, crunchy respite from the fried starters and eventual cheese-laden pizza situation. Get at least a plate per two people if you want enough pickles to go around.
- The Sei margherita upgrades the standard one with buffalo mozzarella, bringing an ultra-rich basis to the aromatic pie. Traditional basil and tomato sauce attempts to bring balance, but cheese ultimately takes over. Neapolitan pie disciples will enjoy this, though those who want more crust texture should look at other pizzas.
- Scrocchiarella (say that three times fast) combines Joo’s most ambitious topping array: gochujang romesco, Iberico chorizo, maple syrup–candied guanciale, stracciatella, aged balsamic, tomato, and basil. The very wide, very crispy pie comes with a dark cocoa-colored crust that feels shatteringly crisp, resembling a nearly charred sweet-salty-meaty tavern pizza injected with angelic air.
- Fans of Joo’s Chinese-inspired málà lamb pie will love the montanara — a baked then fried number that carries the same topping blend of cumin-dusted lamb, smoked provola, shallots, bell peppers, and cilantro flowers. Think of it like a pizza doughnut straight out of the fryer, a glorious display of golden-brown dough laden with spice, cheese, and herbs to amplify all flavors.
Best for
Pizza-obsessives, gluten-mongers, and Italiaphiles who want to see the bleeding edge of pizza inventiveness in Los Angeles right now.
Insider tip
It’s best to order at least two different kinds of pizzas here (as in, don’t just get Neapolitan). You’ll want a contrast between the softer, large-crusted Neapolitan and the cracker-crisp scrocchiarella. Also, be mindful of the sweeter elements in the Diavola, which can be divisive. The small menu doesn’t allow modifications, so pickier palates should wait until Joo expands the options in the coming days. A handy two-axis chart helps first-timers navigate the menu.
The takeaway
Pizzeria Sei isn’t meant to be crowd-pleasing. It’s a serious operation that showcases Joo’s tireless research across the current milieu of Italian pizzacraft, melded with his Korean American sensibility and fine dining background. Traditionalists and New York pizza fans won’t find a lot to like, but I think the boundary-pushing approaches will lift Sei to new heights in the national — and maybe even international — pizza conversation.
