I love New York City in the summer, especially this past one, but I grew up in the shadow of the Rocky Mountains. I’m in my late 20s, I rock climb, and I live in Brooklyn, so of course I have an upstate New York itinerary for you. My partner’s mom’s partner (yes)
has a cabin in Accord, New York, that we’ve been lucky to house sit, and I’ve fully fallen in love with the Catskills. Over the past few months, I’ve been so grateful to escape for a few long weekends among the trees and the birds and the slightly cooler weather of the Hudson Valley.
When I tell people in the city about my trips upstate, they’re often surprised to hear me gush about the restaurants. And while I think you could make all your meals (the bounty at the farm stands and markets make cooking very dreamy up there) and still have a great time, I can also strongly make the case for a dining-focused trip. Here’s where to go.
Day 1: Friday
If you’re heading up from the city, there are a few transit options (a bus from Port Authority to New Paltz or Kingston, the Metro North to Poughkeepsie, Amtrak to Hudson), but you’ll want a car to get around once you’re in the Catskills. I journey upstate via a car, which we pick up in New Jersey; that means that I get to grab Corner Slice’s massive, pillowy garlic knots as a pre-trip snack. If you find yourself in the area, I recommend you do the same.
Lunch
Stop at Storm King Art Center to take in the outdoor sculptures or catch a concert (I saw Dev Hynes’ ensemble there this summer and it was one of the most beautiful shows I’ve ever been to). I know museum restaurants are better than ever these days, but readers of this newsletter would probably appreciate that you can bring your own food and picnic, so I say pack a lunch. Anything goes; I’ve seen Panda Express from the nearest rest stop in those fields.
Dinner
Drive a little farther north and you’ll hit New Paltz, your first introduction to the charms of Upstate. Grab dinner at Shorties, a self-described “bar for the whole family” that lives up to the premise with DJs every night and pinball. A kimchi-topped hot dog is my move, but yours could be green pozole stew, togarashi-rubbed wings, or prosciutto- and pepperoncini-topped nachos. For those who are driving, a bonus at this spot is that the N/A drinks are good, with fun ingredients like salted guava juice. If you’re staying for longer than a night or two and planning to cook, stop by the fishmonger Gadaleto’s for all your seafood needs, while you’re in New Paltz. And if you’re planning to climb, you can rent pads from Rock & Snow.
Drinks
I stay in the Accord area, where lodging ranges wildly, from cabin Airbnbs to a souped-up retro motel to the luxury hotel Inness. The latter has a lovely (but pricey) restaurant for a group. Take in the same vibe (and view of the sunset) right outside the restaurant from the outdoor bar, where you can sit on Adirondack chairs around the fire and pretend you’re one of the celebrity guests. For a night-in alternative, grab a bottle of natural wine at Bluebird Wine Shop, which is next to the cutest grocery store, Accord Market— I like to stop in and pick up pie or ice cream for at-home (in-cabin?) dessert and drinks.
Day 2: Saturday
Lunch
In the morning, grab a coffee and pastry from Black Dot Cafe on your way to a hike at Minnewaska State Park, which has many trail options of varying lengths and levels of difficulty. Alternatively, if you’re a climber, go to the Mohonk Preserve. Both are beautiful, and — crucially for our purposes here — close to a really great German restaurant for lunch. The Mountain Brauhaus is a scene. I’ve never seen the family-owned German restaurant not packed with people, and as soon as you’re inside, you’ll see why. The portions are massive; the dirndl-clad servers are charming and personable; slices of pumpernickel come with most dishes, and I’ve witnessed people try and then subsequently order a loaf to take home — it’s that good. Recount your jaunt in nature over a wienerschnitzel, some spaetzle, a wheat beer with a slice of lemon, and excellent people watching.
A Snack and an Activity
Skate off the schnitzel at Skate Time, a retro roller rink run by the people behind Bjorn Qorn. You’re here to skate, yes, but also to have some pierogies from Helena’s Pierogis (the pierogi shop’s brick-and-mortar location in Kerhonkson is cash-only, so it’s a bonus to me, a serial non-cash-haver, that you can enjoy them here under the glow of popcorn-funded lights).
Dinner
Westwind Orchard is a staple for me. I was one of those people who didn’t really understand the hype of a good summer tomato until I had a life-changing panzanella here a few years ago. The ambiance here is the main attraction — parents let their children run free in the fields, there’s sometimes salsa dancing and live music, you’re surrounded by apple trees. Still, the food is better than it needs to be and so what you want when you’re on a trip where nature is the focus: fresh, seasonal, and simple. Get the aforementioned panzanella and don’t decide between pizza or pasta; get both. I like the pappardelle and the seasonal pizza is reliably excellent (right now, it’s summer squash and blossoms). Westwind is a cidery, but if you’re like me and not the biggest cider fan, rest assured that there are also classic cocktails highlighting New York ingredients, like a Negroni Sbagliato with cider as the bubbly topper.
Day 3: Sunday
Breakfast
Head north to Kingston. Have a cortado and a frittata from Village Coffee and Goods, then make your way around the town, which is one of my favorites in the area and a shopping destination for antiques, records, vintage clothing, and books.
Lunch
Rosie General is my favorite all-day cafe. I always get a mortadella sandwich or a chile-crisp-topped egg toast here. Recently, I surveyed the room and realized it seemed like every sandwich had its own dedicated kind of bread (some on English muffins, some on ciabatta, some on baguettes) made in-house; I really admire that level of commitment to detail. I generally prefer an edible souvenir to a trinket, and the shoppy shop-esque pantry of homemade mustards, pickles, infused oils and vinegars is a great place to pick one up.
Afternoon Pit Stops
Many NYC people travel upstate just to go to Stissing House; us included. On the way, we discovered Zabriskie’s Waterfall near the Bard College campus. It’s a swimming hole, but the vibe is more lean against a rock and read. When happy hour comes around, check out C. Cassis. You might associate cassis with old-timey France, but C. Cassis is doing it differently. Here, the blackcurrant liqueur isn’t sticky sweet, and you can enjoy it in fun applications like a piña colada, while learning more about the ingredient from friendly bartenders.
Dinner
Waiting for your table at Stissing House is actually part of the fun, because if you come sans reservation, you’re offered a seat and a drink in a living room-like space with candles and serve-yourself peanuts. I happily sipped a martini there, humming music from The Testament of Ann Lee (it’s very that vibe, honestly), awaiting a dinner of ham and pickles, fish pie, and steak. Skip dessert here (it’s fine, but I have a better plan). Back in the Accord area, hit Cherries Roadside; it’s classic Americana in a way that I have to say speaks to me. There is ice cream, sundaes, and milkshakes, but I always go with vanilla soft-serve — enjoy while marveling at the fact that you didn’t have to wait in one of the absurdly long froyo lines back in the city.
Honorable Mentions (and Where I Want to Hit Next Time
Harana Market makes some of my favorite Filipino food in the United States; they no longer have a dining room, but watch for pop-ups or takeaway opportunities (or if you have a big enough group, get catering!). Eng’s Chinese in Kingston is a slice of local history; I’ve so far only gotten (great) takeout, but I want to check out its dining room next. I recently had a head cheese sandwich from Cafe Mutton, in Hudson, that rocked my world. And if you are wine-inclined, Kingston Wine Co. sells some of the coolest bottles in the state, and Mirador, also in Kingston, is a great spot for sherry and pintxos. I’m also dying to check out the Oaxacan food scene in Poughkeepsie.
There are too many places to fit in one weekend, so I made you a list of more favorites in the Eater app. Follow me for more of my curated picks from the Northeast. (Subscribe to our travel newsletter, too!)
