A new venture from the teams behind Oaxacan restaurant Istmo and the former Mexican brewery Casa Humilde is breathing new life into the taproom’s Forest Park space. Sendero, which takes its name from the Spanish word for “road,” is slated to open in early
September.
The project is a new path for Casa Humilde’s José López. His well-known Mexican beer brand and taproom closed in March, after López parted ways with his brother and business partner, Javier. The closing came much to the surprise of fans and patrons.
Sendero will channel the spirit of a cantina, while keeping much of the space’s existing furniture and character, including a mural by Chicago-based artist Alma Domínguez. Reminiscent of a lotería card, a traditional Mexican game similar to bingo, the mural depicts an immigrant leaping over a border fence. The card portrays this man as “El Valiente”, or the courageous one.
The new touches are subtle: a palette of earthy yellows and golden browns, along with strategically placed terracotta tiles and lamps, a nod to the Oaxacan theme of the new menu. The light-filled space, and a few shelves and plants, add to an environment that plays on the warm familiarity of a relative’s home.
“It reminds you of your tía’s house,” López says.
And just like at tía’s, children are welcome at Sendero; the team’s goal is to make patrons of all ages feel at home. That intention comes through in details like the kids’section on the menu, the shareable plates, and the baby-changing stations available in every bathroom.
That personal brand of hospitality will also extend to the beer, with the team brewing their own: Sendero, which is expected to be available on draft at the restaurant and through wider distribution beginning in October.
To further deliver on his vision, López joined forces with Istmo’s chef Carlos López Muñoz, whose experience include stints working with chefs Rick Bayless and Carlos Gaytán, alongside López Muñoz’s business partner, Juan Carlos Covarrubias. Covarrubias is also behind the popular churrería, Xurro, and the Mexican cocktail bar Raizes.
Also in the mix is brand marketer Juan Sánchez. Formerly with Chicago-based michelada company Big Mich, Sánchez brings in an established distribution network, and a record of connecting brands with cultural experiences.
López Muñoz is already making his mark on the food, putting his touch on a tight menu that features appetizers, a few comfort food staples, and several taco options.
There’s a plate of wings with a choice of sauces including salsa macha, and maracuyá-habanero. A Oaxacan tlayuda is also in the works, with López Muñoz looking into sourcing asiento, a pork ingredient that’s typical in tlayudas but isn’t often seen outside of Oaxaca. The pork fat has a fried chicharrón flavor that gives richness and depth to the tlayuda.
López Muñoz recently discovered that his father had been a taquero in his youth, so he brought back to life some of his father’s salsa recipes — by some measures the mark of a good taqueria. The result is a range of flavors and levels of heat matched with each of the tacos on the menu: “There will be a salsa for everyone,” he says.
At the bar, the namesake brand will flow on draft, with a lager, an IPA, and a nonalcoholic option. The menu will also incorporate other beer brands and even a shareable caguama: Mexico’s iconic 32-ounce bottle.
Micheladas get their own attention here, with a classic version, a piña-mango michelada made with the bar’s house chamoy and rim salt-and-chile blend, and a michelada negra made with dark beer.
Patrons will also find a handful of Mexican wines from different regions, and a tight menu of agave-forward cocktails. With Covarrubias involved, there’s reason to expect the selection will have real thought behind it.
“I see Sendero as a modern cantina with great-quality food,” Juan Sánchez says.
Drawing from Casa Humilde’s former entertainment offerings, Sánchez will oversee programming that will range from live music to DJ sets, lotería nights, and watch parties for major sporting events. “We have enough screens so that people can see the screen from virtually every angle,” he says.
Sánchez will also lead the efforts to expand the brand beyond Sendero. Eventually, the team hopes to distribute their beers and continue to grow Tazita, their wholesale coffee brand.
“This is a place to keep culture alive through food and music,” López adds. “We want people to feel right at home.”
Sendero is located at 7700 Madison Street in Forest Park; opening on September 9 with hours from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Wednesday through Thursday; 3 p.m. to midnight Friday; noon to midnight Saturday; and noon to 10 p.m. Sunday.
