Chef Jason Halverson and Hi Neighbor Hospitality Group of Trestle, Mama Oakland, the Vault, and more, have opened their latest restaurant, Sergeant Ma, with a big splash in the China Basin neighborhood. Named after Halverson’s mother — affectionately
called both “sergeant” and “ma” — the restaurant is a reflection of his upbringing. His mother immigrated to the United States from Vietnam, and Halverson spent his childhood in Wichita, Kansas, eating his mother’s cooking, where “she interpreted recipes her own way,” as the restaurant shares. What that means at Sergeant Ma is a food menu that zigzags between cultural references, both Asian and Californian, with produce-driven dishes inspired by Halverson’s own history of cooking in (and owning) San Francisco restaurants.
The vibe
Walking up to the front doors of Sergeant Ma is a treat. Facing the waters of Mission Creek Channel, it’s a serene scene in the evening as the sun sets and joggers stride by. Diners partaking in the outdoor firepits and lounge chairs will have the best view, but floor-to-ceiling windows and doors bring the outdoors in, especially when they’re open on warmer summer days. Inside, the tall ceilings give the space an airy feel, boosted by the abundant plant life, including a massive fiddle-leaf fig tree and two large hanging pendant lights. The backlit bar towards the back of the restaurant is an easy gathering spot with plenty of seating and a drink rail for packed evenings and busy happy hours. The restaurant and bar areas seem built and ready for crowds, and given its proximity to Oracle Park and several businesses, it’s a good bet.
What to order
- The duck pate and liver mousse ($19) was the surprise bite for me, topped with spicy mustard and served with a warm pineapple bun. I wasn’t sure how the flavors would mix, but it does, wonderfully — the funk of the pate and liver mousse plays really well with the subtle sweetness of that warmed pineapple bun. The sharpness of the mustard adds another unexpected element, and it comes nicely plated into easy, spreadable bites.
- The yuba and tomato salad ($16) is a study in textures, pairing tofu skin with tomatoes, fresh greens, Romano beans, and loads of garlic-chile crunch. Each ingredient did its part, giving the dish some freshness from the vegetables, a nice chew from the yuba, and some sass from the chile crunch.
- The spicy Manila clams and pork belly ($24) is another favorite, featuring just-cooked clams tossed with cannellini beans and bits of pork belly, and topped with crispy noodles and scallions. The sauce the clams come in is just spicy enough — nothing to start sweating over, but enough to appreciate what it does to the dish.
- I’m really loving that chefs are finally bringing the classic taro dumpling into new realms, such as Sergeant Ma’s taro-crusted chicken wings ($18). Add to the fact that the team is also stuffing these wings — a 2022 trend that really didn’t get the traction it deserved, but does well here.
- If you can manage to make it into the heavier entrees, my group enjoyed the lobster mafaldine ($41) featuring the ruffle-edged pasta that’s perfect for holding sauce in its nooks and crannies (in this case, a Chinese black bean sauce). The dish comes with a lobster tail and some of the claw meat, along with Chinese broccoli tossed throughout. It’s a very umami-forward dish that’s extremely flavorful and fun to slurp up.
The drinks
There’s a decently sized bar menu available, thanks to beverage consultant Suzanne Miller, who designed some cocktails meant to match the Asian flavors in the food. Tidal Lagoon features overproof rye paired with a White Rabbit syrup (for a nice nostalgic candy effect) and Old Fashioned bitters, while a refreshing Salt Marsh cocktail brings lychee-infused tequila to the mix, with Hawthorne agave and lime. Along with those drinks is a selection of wines from California and Europe, and three local beers on draft. Three nonalcoholic drinks also hold things down for those who’d rather not partake, but still want something complex and fun.
Insider tip
Buried on the Sergeant Ma website is a fun fact for drivers: The restaurant offers $10 validated parking on non-game, non-event days, which is a huge help, given the limited parking options near Oracle Park. Sure, that doesn’t help when you’re there to see the Giants or watch a concert, but it’s a nice bonus just for coming out to dinner. Look out for the garage entrance on Third Street, before the bridge into Mission Bay.
