Legendary Virginia chef Jonathan Krinn revels in the unexpected at Elyse, from the tiny 30-seat location in Fairfax to the ingredients that range from kangaroo tartare to pan-seared sugar toads. Two years in, he has reliable local clientele that are loving
what he calls his “incubator” of a five course tasting menu ($140 per person, with options for three courses) that swap out regularly for the seasons and to accommodate whatever zany produce and proteins he’s getting from producers he’s been developing relationships with for a quarter-century.
What to order
- Start with divine vegetable dishes that showcase less popular seasonal varieties: winter luxury sugar pumpkins and cauliflower (with a fioretto hybrid) were presented in many different ways (a favorite technique of Krinn): made into sauces and gently roasted alongside other earthy ingredients.
- Some experimental dishes really spoke to me, like the sugar toads (local pufferfish) pan-seared in brown butter and topped with shaved burgundy truffle. In other instances, the classic was the showstopper, such as the rare slices of wagyu beef and caramelized bites of sunchoke with a Castelfranco radicchio sauce.
- Sometimes a dish was more interesting than delicious. For example, opah (a striking fatty fish sometimes called moonfish), was served in four different raw and cooked preparations. While it was fun to try all these versions, my dining partner and I only finished off the smoked section and I wish that had been the entire dish.
- Topical right now in D.C.: Krinn is also known for his foie gras dish that is an optional add-on (around $30). The version he served us, with crispy “rocks” of roasted sesame and bright slices of persimmon was a must order. Should the ban go through, it might become one of the few places near the city to order duck liver.
What to drink
I was a huge fan of the “synthesis” pairing, which switches between a non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverage for each course ($80, compared to the $95 entry wine pairing and $70 nonalcoholic option). The nonalcoholic beverages are taken as seriously as the wine. I was delighted by a buckwheat tea kombucha from Brooklyn and a sparkling botanical drink from Norway flavored with lingonberry and rosemary.
The vibes
This has become a place for locals. The lush green velvet booths, comfortable leather chairs, and all-marble surfaces come from Krinn’s wife, Antonia Le, who is constantly changing up the interior. She also leads yoga retreats with Krinn that take them around the world (and exploring global cuisines).
Insider tip
The service here is truly top-notch. Every server can go into wildly specific details for the menu and advise you on your wine selection. You might recognize them from Michelin-starred places like Bresca or Rooster & Owl in D.C., Krinn tells me he recruited plenty of wonderful service staff that wanted to work closer to home in Virginia.
