When Holbox first opened in 2017, one of eight restaurants in the historic Mercado La Paloma, no one knew how far-reaching the famed Mexican seafood stall’s influence would be felt throughout Los Angeles. Holbox was the first market stand in Los Angeles to receive
a Michelin star, in effect changing the way food halls and marketplaces now get perceived nationally. It landed a spot on North America’s 50 Best Restaurants list and James Beard nods for chef Gilbert Cetina, whose family has been part of Mercado La Paloma’s history since opening Yucatecan Chichen Itza in 2001. It has been included in Eater Los Angeles’s own 38 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles list multiple times.
And yet much has remained from Holbox’s early days: its emphasis on local ingredients, the quality of the seafood, and the warm feeling of both the service and the location. (The lines are newer — but they move quickly.) Regardless, it’s one of the lines in Los Angeles actually worth waiting in, no matter the length. Holbox also offers 8-course tasting menus on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m., but reservations — which can be found on Resy — can be tricky to grab in time.
What to order
- Scallop aguachile is a dish I’ve never skipped on my many visits to Holbox. Plump and mildly sweet Baja-bay scallops surround a thinly sliced avocado centerpiece that’s shaped to resemble a rose. The whole thing gets submerged in a lime, cilantro, and serrano chile marinade equal parts zippy and spicy; I can drink the whole thing.
- House-smoked kanpachi mingles with buttery, melted Chihuahua cheese in the smoked kampachi taco. The fish’s smoke flavor gets amplified by a nutty salsa macha while the cheese’s richness feels balanced by a spicy salsa cruda of finely cut tomatoes, onions, and chiles. Every element can be tamed by a creamy sliver of avocado.
- A decadent kanpachi tostada, crowned with fresh uni the color of tangerines, remains essential for true seafood diehards. The uni’s salinity stars here, but the brightness of kampachi ceviche with red onions and chile makes for a remarkable supporting player. The creamy avocado sauce swiped on the tostada ties the whole thing together.
The vibe
Although Holbox has a Michelin star, the vibe isn’t white tablecloths and buttoned up servers — which adds to the appeal. Holbox is situated in Mercado La Paloma and the open seating and market setting make it feel like a true locals’ destination, even as it now attracts travelers from around the world. It’s fun to share tables with other guests and witness the buzziness of the mercado as you dive into your seafood spread.
Insider tip
You can easily make your visit there a bang-bang. I suggest grabbing suadero tacos from Komal, an agua fresca from Oaxacali, and Yucatan specialties — like fried fish tacos and the antojitos trio — from Chichen Itza, a stall also run by the Cetina family.
