Henrietta, a charming all-day deli, market, and restaurant, lives on the edge of Echo Park and Westlake in the same complex as Clark Street Bakery and a Good Used Book. Owner Max Lesser is a veteran ofChicago’s the Publican and Chi Spacca here in Los
Angeles; chef Alexis Brown previously worked at the now-closed Italian institution Alimento. During the day, the restaurant serves sandwiches on bread from neighboring Clark Street Bakery, along with drip coffee, hibiscus lemonade, and wine. After dark, Henrietta becomes a cozy, candlelit bistro, serving some of Los Angeles’s best roast chickens as part of a menu that reflects the bounty of California cooking and produce. With a laid-back, light-filled dining room and a dish lineup that works for a quick lunch or languid dinner, Henrietta has quickly established itself as a place where it’s easy to become a regular.
What to order
- During the day, find sandwiches on Clark Street bread, like the chicken Milanese, which tucks a slice of crispy, breaded chicken between radicchio blanketed in Caesar aioli, and the Shredder, stacked with spicy capicola, Comté, and dill pickles.
- Everyone, their mother, and their mother’s restaurant seem to beserving crudo in Los Angeles — the dish’s ubiquity makes it easy to dismiss on menus as just another sliced-fish situation. Luckily, that’s not the case at Henrietta, which cranks up the acidity and heat; ruby-red pieces of tuna bathe in Fresno chile and citrus for a punchy bite that lingers once the plate is clean.
- Beef tartare toast will appeal to both seasoned raw-beef fans and those who are just tartare-curious, with smoky romesco slathered on a toasted slice of sourdough and dollops of crema.
- Distinctly unphotogenic ricotta dumplings, oblong beige lumps in a brownish broth, make up for their homeliness with comforting depth. The dumpling wrappers are pleasingly toothsome; accept the server’s recommendation and get grilled bread to sop up the broth.
- The Great Chickening has landed at Henrietta with the Zuni-inspired half chicken, served with a chicory Caesar panzanella dotted with jagged hand-torn croutons that could be a meal in itself. Pair the chicken with a side of Henrietta potatoes blanketed in a thick layer of shredded Parmesan.
The vibe
The room feels warm and comfortable with a vintage bent — a stylish mishmash of posters and photos covers an alcove; plates look like your grandmother’s without the stains and chips. Evenings buzz with couples and friends, or maybe a small company holiday dinner. It gets crowded but not chaotic.
Insider tip
Henrietta doubles as a market with curated food gifts, but owner Max Lesser is particularly proud of the tea selection, which includes local Flowerhead and a few special jars from Bellocq Teas in Brooklyn that you can also order for an after-dinner sip.
