Bad Roman, an absurdist modern Italian restaurant by way of New York City’s Columbus Circle mega-mall (its first location), has arrived with a bang in Beverly Hills. The restaurant, which opened in late May, comes from a prolific New York–based group
that also runs Quality Italian, Don Angie, and the original Smith & Wollensky steakhouse, marking its first expansion to the West Coast. The long-unoccupied Palm steakhouse space on Canon Drive has given way to Bad Roman’s over-the-top take on Italian American classics, some very well-executed and some a little head-scratching — possibly showing early signs of inconsistency. But most diners here seem more on board for the escapism, which the restaurant and its ambiance — sleek Greyhound statues and all — provide in scores. Those pining for a reservation can skip lunch and make the 4:30 p.m. first table, where dreamy sunlight pours in from the frosted glass windows.
What to order
- Spicy Caesar salad ($22) doesn’t feel spicy at all except for a light dusting of chile powder breadcrumbs covering the top of the little gem lettuce. It’s a terrific light start to a meal that will quickly get heavier.
- Garlic babka ($12) employs comforting roasted garlic woven into a classic babka loaf. Eat it quickly before it cools off.
- ‘Roni cups & ranch ($14) is another Instagram-friendly appetizer that recalls childhood days of picking off pepperoni with curled, blackened edges from pizza slices. Except these are huge, each almost the size of drink coasters. Eat these quickly before the edges get too soft.
- Eggplant pull-a-parm ($35) offers an ingenious take on the Bloomin’ Onion, except with encrusted finger-sized pieces of fried eggplant. Dip into the generous bowl of marinara for something that Olive Garden wishes it invented.
- Shrimp cocktail ($24 for three) comes with enormous U7 shrimp, almost the size of half a lobster tail each. Laid out on gorgeous pebble ice, they’re the ideal balance of firm and bouncy, especially dipped into the almost chunky cocktail sauce.
- Spicy lobster pasta ($58) arrives as a show-stopping main dish finished tableside with a boozy fire show. The lobster the night I went ended up more rubbery than tender, though thankfully, the saucy, spicy Calabrian chile sauce made up for it.
- Bad Roman’s lemon cheesecake ($21), plated up like frozen chocolate-covered lemons over a bed of sandy crumbs, conjures beachside escapes on the Amalfi Coast. The playful approach absolutely works here.
Insider tip
There are three off-menu dishes available every night, two of which you should order on your first visit: “baked-and-burnt” paccheri Amatriciana and a mercilessly cheesy “side order” of chicken Parmesan no bigger than a compact disc (remember those?). Our table didn’t get to try the sticky, sweet porchetta ribs, but that may become a reason to revisit.
Best for
Whimsical mommy-and-daughter dates where familiar Italian American flavors can please all parties; baller nights where you’ll need at least three icy margarita cocktails to feel anything; flashy Beverly Hills dinners for those with childlike palates who want a clear upgrade from the next Los Angeles contender in the category, Jon & Vinny’s.
The takeaway
Bad Roman was made to be a chain restaurant, and though this is only the second outpost, one could envision it expanding to Las Vegas, Chicago, Dallas, Miami, and beyond. Is Bad Roman poised to be the maximalist Macaroni Grill or Liberace-influenced Buca di Beppo? It’s certainly worth betting on.
