If I were to describe the perfect neighborhood restaurant, Cafe Lolo would completely fit my definition. The food is comforting and nourishing, emphasizing local ingredients, which playfully come together in a way that feels both fresh and familiar. The space
is draped in natural light that’s assisted by over a dozen lamps. The inviting dining room is covered in quirky Renaissance-inspired murals that don’t feel disruptive. There are to-go meal kits available for purchase, as well as local beers. It’s an atmosphere that invites you to unwind with a bottle of wine. Owners Leah Engel, Alex Halmi, and Brett Bankson are present, not only flitting about the room, but also cooking the dishes in the kitchen and laughing with customers. If I lived in the neighborhood, just off the main drag of Capitol Hill, it’s somewhere I’d want to return to over and over again.
What to order
- It’s hard to specify exactly what to order as Cafe Lolo’s menu shapeshifts with the changing seasons. But the sourdough rye focaccia ($5 at dinner) — which is unapologetically tangy and bubbly — is a fixture of the menu. Add this to every order and save it for the end to sop up pasta sauces. During lunch, it plays a supporting role in sandwiches such as the Egg and Greens ($13) with Ferndale Reserve cheese, pickled onions, greens, and a smashed egg.
- Smoked salmon rillettes struck a balance between creamy and salty thanks to a remoulade featuring pops of capers. Thin slices of colorful purple daikon add a welcome freshness and a hit of bitterness. Get them if they’re on the menu.
- I would love to sip on the nutty miso and hazelnut dressing at the bottom of the bowl of seared baby bok choy and mushrooms. The dish highlighted the char on the star, in-season ingredients while further amplifying the mushrooms and leafy greens with herbaceous ramp oil and blackened scallions. A shower of fried sunchokes brought an additional layer of texture with a satisfying crunch.
- The tang of creme fraiche against the unadulterated sweetness of fresh carrots and snap peas felt like summer in a bowl.
- At the time of my visit, there were two pastas to choose from. The vegetarian cappanelle with a zucchini and onion sugo was my preference. I love that you can appreciate the uniqueness of milled red wheat in the fresh pasta while the saltiness of Parmesan cheese cozied up next to aromatic nigella. Cafe Lolo’s use of local grain means that whatever pasta is on the menu, you should probably order it.
What to drink
Cafe Lolo has an extensive wine menu and many local beers, as well as bottles in the fridge you can pick up to-go. Although yes, the wine list — which includes just one glass from Washington, and more options from Oregon and Europe) — is worth perusing, the nonalcoholic tisanes are also made from seasonal ingredients. The strawberry rhubarb soda I had on my visit was effervescent and floral without an overpowering sweetness.
Insider tip
Like the rest of the menu, dessert will change pending seasons — but don’t skip it. My visit included a celebration of ripe, macerated strawberries over a semolina olive oil cake, which had a buttery crust and a tender interior crumb. There was also a scoop of rhubarb sorbet; light, sweet, and sharp.
