Indian fine dining is having a moment in New York: one of the newest arrivals on the scene is Kidilum, a ritzy Keralan restaurant — a rarity in NYC — in Flatiron that’s helmed by chef Vinu Raveendran, previously of two-Michelin-starred Mugaritz in San Sebastián. It’s a special occasion restaurant, but it’s fun, it’s delicious, and the spice-rich dishes (they grind their own spices daily in a dedicated spice room) will transport you to the South Indian coast.
What to order
- If the chakka ($24) isn’t on your table, you’re doing it wrong. Crispy jackfruit balls, which have the texture of tender pulled pork, are swimming in a rich cashew sauce. Don’t miss this, especially if you like spice.
- Yes, the iracchi pathiri ($27) is Instagrammable, with the branches (which the chef personally turns into serving dishes) that are a bit gimmicky. This rich appetizer of shredded beef atop fried rice cakes isn’t a must-order, but you won’t regret ordering it.
- I’d go as far as to say the attu chaps ($42) are some of the best lamb chops in NYC. The meat — which the waiter said they get from a tiny producer in Australia — is brushed with salted plum, which gives it a bit of a sour tang. I wish I had ordered another plate of them.
What to drink
The cocktails ($22 each) are better than they need to be — remarkably balanced, and could fit right in on any fancy cocktail bar’s menu. The Khopra with dark rum, jasmine, pineapple, coconut, and curry leaves somehow tastes exactly like a peach ring. Order it if you like sweeter drinks, or
Kidilum martini with gin, dry vermouth, and raw mango brine for a tangy twist on a classic.
Insider tip
Try to see the spice room downstairs after dinner. Your server may offer a tour, and if they do, say yes. The small, closet-sized space is packed with all the carefully sourced spices they use.
