An offshoot of similarly named siblings in D.C. and Long Island, the Angie came on the scene this summer as a new bistro option that exudes festive party vibes. There’s a bicycle-driven drink cart on the welcoming, expansive patio. For a cool $120, you
can order an absinthe-esque martini fountain for the table. A sign with a bell at the entrance reads “Press for Champagne” (“What happens when you press?” I ask the host on the way out. “Nothing!” he replies cheerfully. Bummer).
The best reason to go is its appealing lunch deal — but you should know the Angie is still working out some service kinks.
What to order
- The $25, two-course lunch prix fixe is the move during afternoon hours, with more than a dozen options for each course. Be mindful of upcharges if you go with such dishes as the blue crab rangoon (+$5) or fruits de mer pasta (+$15).
- Lunch also offers some strong sandwich contenders. The Wagyu French dip (+$5 for the prix fixe; $43 a la carte) is a formidable version of the classic (cut into thirds to reflect its generous size), with tender shaved beef and a zippy horseradish sauce (given its price tag, including a side of fries would be welcome). Their spin on jambon beurre ($28 a la carte) gets richness from Comté cheese and benefits from a mustard kick, though its soft baguette lacks the sturdiness you’d expect from a traditional, crusty version.
- The restaurant has an extensive raw bar selection, and the crab martini ($31), in its glass of pebbled ice accented with seaweed, is a stylish way of presenting San Francisco’s famed Crab Louie, with just enough sauce to complement the clean flavors of the crab.
Take note
During my afternoon visit, only about three tables were occupied (plus a handful of patio diners), yet service was still pretty slow. Servers were congenial, but it was hard to flag them down to refill water glasses, and cocktails didn’t arrive until the second course. Drinks were uneven once they appeared — a Paper Plane tasted predominantly of bourbon, and a Vesper was approaching room temperature. Also: while the French onion soup ($17) comes positively blanketed with cheese, the broth underneath proves disappointingly one-note; a generous glug of sherry would add complexity.
Insider tip
Balos Restaurant Group has gotten some shade from competing restaurant owners for allegedly copying dishes and logos from other popular restaurants like Millie’s in Spring Valley. And the warm shrimp salad here ($32), like at Bar Angie, is awfully reminiscent of Le Diplomate’s beloved dish of the same name ($31). Le Diplomate’s version has a more balanced buerre blanc dressing, gets a welcome bite from sharp cheese and sundried tomato, and offers the smug satisfaction that comes with knowing you’re consuming the original. But for serving size (and protein consumption), the Angie’s salad has the edge, with five plumper shrimp compared with the Starr restaurant’s four.
