The old Bowery Bungalow space is now home to Josephine, a freewheeling, seasonal Italo-French restaurant that strikes the right balance between chic and casual. Named after the grandmothers of both owners, Josephine is a worthy inheritor of the historic
yellow bungalow space, which also includes a string-lit gazebo and expansive, vine-covered patio out back. Since opening at the start of summer, the signature roast chicken and steak frites — served with Josephine’s indulgent duck fat fries — have already emerged as fan favorites. Chef and co-owner Marco Gagliardi injects life into the menu with unexpected combinations like melon, guanciale, and chile crisp and a rotating pasta that often features duck. On a recent balmy evening, the front dining room was packed with groups of friends celebrating birthdays, couples on dates, and locals enjoying glasses of low-intervention wine from the affordable priced by-the-glass selection. This is the epitome of a Silver Lake local’s hangout spot — even if you’re just cosplaying as one for the night.
What to order
- Available by the half and whole portions, the chicken Josephine occupies its own box on the menu for good reason. Bathed in a lemon thyme juice and accompanied by a side of roast potatoes, the crowd-pleasing main includes a nicely browned skin and ultra moist interior. There might be many great roast chicken dishes in Los Angeles — Pollo a La Brasa and Electric Bleu immediately come to mind — but the chicken Josephine easily competes with the best of them.
- The starter section rotates on a seasonal basis, but the beef tartare with tallow aioli and cured egg yolk remains a constant. Gagliardi puts his mark on the trusty bistro standard by serving it in cones.
- The $48 hangar steak frites come with a delightful sansho peppercorn sauce that puts a Japanese spin on classic steak au poivre and a heaping portion of crispy, thickly cut fries for wiping up the remainder of the sauce.
- The dessert menu also changes regularly, but recent highlights include a clafoutis with sauce Suzette and a Basque cheesecake with passionfruit curd. They don’t reinvent the wheel, but they make for a satisfying finish to an all-around pleasant meal.
The vibe
Slightly grungy with laidback service and a Gen X rock-heavy soundtrack. Expect a fairly age-diverse, stylishly dressed local crowd.
Insider tip
Order whatever pasta is available for the evening — the exact dish changes regularly, though the kitchen typically hits the mark. Usually, Gagliardi enjoys incorporating duck, like in an early fall duck cannelloni with béchamel, fig gastrique, and freshly grated horseradish.
