A once-sleepy downtown hotel is hot again 40 years later. The Grand Hyatt Washington, which debuted back when Ronald Reagan was president, capped off its multi-million-dollar facelift this July with the opening of lobby-level restaurant Oribu. The oversized
menu mimics the hotel’s scale in a tri-fold book of options. The kitchen focuses on what the team calls the maritime Silk Road, with dishes bouncing around the Mediterranean and Japan. First-time D.C. chef and hotel vet Joevel Magpantay comes here all the way from the Andaz Abu Dhabi.
What to order
- While it does swing on the small side, the rock shrimp tempura starter ($22) slathered in spiced chile aioli, was excellent and pops in the blue bowl atop banana leaves.
- Olive wood-smoked burrata ($24) topped with fleur de sel salt is the fanciest caprese salad I’ve had, and the pretty plate unveiled under a glass dome will taste even better once tomato season fully hits.
- The kebab plates, surrounded by hummus, tzatziki, pickled vegetables, and warm pita, are big enough for two ($30). Two rows of juicy chicken shish taouk are held together with gold spears.
- A generous mound of torched scallops is a smoky surprise atop the eight-piece dynamite roll ($23), joined by snow crab, cucumber, avocado, and unagi sauce. And actually, it’s not even presented like a roll; instead, the pieces are served in a circle (which is fun) and garnished with a big pink hibiscus flower.
- I’m happy to report that sake does, in fact, work well in an espresso martini. That Gold Press cocktail gets its name from a powdery gold finish ($22). And the tequila Spicy Me is also as advertised, thanks to fiery habanero foam ($17).
The vibe
- Being at the bar puts you in the center of the atrium action, which means droves of tourists or loud leadership conference kids whizzing by. Lounge music is noticeable without being distracting, and you can still have an audible conversation with your neighbor (or yell in unison with solo diners at two muted TVs above during World Cup penalty kicks).
- Oribu gets more intimate (and quieter) as you move through the maze-like restaurant surrounded by translucent drapes reminiscent of water; wavy, laser-cut walls; and (faux) Birds of Paradise planters, with sushi chefs showing off their slicing skills from the central omakase counter.
The look
It’s hard to miss Oribu and its gorgeous turquoise-toned furnishings on plush blue carpets as soon as you enter the cavernous hotel. The lobby itself is a work of art — there’s nothing quite like it in D.C. A seat at the bar gets you a view of the breathtaking atrium stretching up 12 stories, complete with a cascading crystal chandelier.
Insider tip
The separate lounge menu is a good way to not get overwhelmed by the lengthy list of options in the dining room, with shorter sections. It was easy for me to skip over hot dishes like tonkotsu ramen, wagyu beef fried rice, and miso-glazed black cod, because, well, summer.
