In the rapidly changing Melrose Hill neighborhood, Roshona Bilash has quickly become a new-school gem for comforting Bangladeshi cooking. Set in a small strip mall away from the heart of Los Angeles’s Little Bangladesh, the family-run restaurant teems
with warmth as kebabs, pliant roti, and slow-cooked stews emerge from a compact kitchen. On any visit, you’ll likely catch chef-owner Abul Ibrahim, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Jasmine, and two adult children, in the dining room, offering cups of chai while customers place their orders and carrying out towering plates of biryani to waiting tables. The accessible price point makes it an easy option for repeat visits, while the hospitality of Ibrahim and his family, along with Bangladeshi cooking that is among the best in Los Angeles, will make anyone want to be a regular.
What to order
- A chicken tikka wrap fills a soft tortilla to the brim with tender chicken, lettuce, cucumber, tomato, toothsome rice that adds necessary structure, and a creamy white sauce. Eating each half is a two-hand operation to hold it all together as hits of cumin and coriander give way to a cool crisp.
- Slow-cooked nihari stew is a standout on the menu with a velvety texture from bone marrow that coats the palate. Pair the orange-hued stew with flaky roti to soak up every last drop and balance out the robust beef notes.
- The Roshona kebab plate arrives on an oblong steel platter with sumac-sprinkled rice, cucumbers, onion, and lettuce. Hunks of beef arrive already de-skewered, making it easier to cut into each tender, flame-kissed piece.
Take note
Roshona Bilash is a small family operation, which means that when it is busy, food can take a long time to come out and certain dishes may sell out. If you’re in a rush, consider calling ahead for takeout.
Insider tip
Complimentary chai is available in a thermal dispenser set on a table adjacent to the register.
