The follow-up act to Del Ray, Virginia’s neighborhood favorite, Matt & Tony’s, is centered around fried chicken served many ways: as a tower with sidewinder fries, pillowed in bibb lettuce, between fluffy milk bread-like buns with slaw, or topped with five
ounces of caviar (at $16 a bite).
But there’s truly something for everyone at chef Eric Brannon’s weeks-old Little Birdie, from a cold noodle salad to whole grilled trout. Wooden tables, ivory walls, hanging plants, and outdoor blue cottage chairs give a casual country vibe, but the well-balanced cocktails and tuna tartare on crispy rice remind diners that hospitality veterans are behind this corner newcomer.
What to order
- The cornbread feels even more indulgent than all the fried chicken on the menu, with a slight sweetness and plenty of butter in the moist bread. To really put it over the top, the seared slices are served with three butters, each topped with nori, blueberry miso jelly, and an incredibly smoky hot sauce somewhat reminiscent of gochujang.
- There are plenty of fried chicken options on the menu, but my favorite was the gochujang-glazed chicken sandwich with a green onion and cabbage kimchi slaw, plus plenty of spicy mayo. The “working man Japanese milk bun” really upgrades these simple sandwiches, contrasting the airy, soft bun with the crispy breading.
- Don’t be afraid to order a salad, as there’s a surprisingly fantastic selection here. Brannon told me the watermelon panzanella is a popular order, and I loved the summer beets salad that stands out from the classic combinations of whipped goat cheese, pistachio, and mint with chunks of lip-puckering pickled rhubarb.
What to drink
While there are tasteful beer and wine lists on the menu, the cocktails ($14 each) and equally thoughtful spirit-free mocktails ($10 each) highlight beverage director Michael Riojas’ talent. The Red Hen is a crowd-pleaser, with the first sip tasting like a light margarita and Aperol rounding out the drink with a light bitterness. There are just as many nonalcoholic options, with spiced teas upgrading the pear-flavored, milky green Partridge and the refreshing strawberry and rosemary-filled Cardinal.
The vibes
All the suburban happiness of this Alexandria neighborhood is on display here. On my last visit, a group of middle-aged friends was laughing over their entrees, a young family on the patio was locked in on their chicken tenders, and a couple on a date at the bar mostly stuck to drinks. There’s plenty of great seats for taking it all in, but I like sitting at the sleek wooden countertop, watching chefs expertly build sandwiches while listening to chatter from the dining room.
Insider tip
My surprise favorite was the flight of pickles that come with the chicken tender tower or sesame chicken satay, including tiny bowls of classic slaw with thinly sliced cucumber, lightly pickled carrots and daikon, smashed cucumbers with crispy watermelon rinds, and fresh kimchi with bits of japchae. The pickles offer briny relief from the fried fowl they’re served with.
