I feel like every Angeleno has a story about the Airliner — mostly involving getting drunk or dropping acid at parties thrown at the historic Lincoln Heights bar. But that reputation has shifted since partners chef Vinh Nguyen and Gary Wang resurrected
the bar in 2023. The interior space got a facelift with a newly varnished bar counter, reupholstered booth seating, and swanky wallpaper reminiscent of accordion fans. The menu, too, has been reimagined — changing the Airliner from a casual dive often used for pregaming concerts to a serious dining destination with an inviting happy hour menu, intentional cocktails, and natural wine. Although I’m nostalgic for the former glory days of the Airliner, this new, grown-up iteration feels even better.
What to order
- For the table, an order of whipped ricotta drizzled with chile crisp combines the creaminess of fluffy cheese, ample amounts of garlic, and roasted chiles to make something delightful to heap onto nutty tostada discs.
- Mentaiko spaghetti contains generous amounts of pollock roe that give pops of salinity within the nest of noodles. There’s a mild heat to the creamy brown butter sauce; a chiffonade adds a light herbaceousness that balances the rest of the dish.
- The vegan Shanghai triple onion noodles appeals to all. Tangles of thin noodles arrive stained with a dark soy sauce and slick with roasted onion oil. The allium flavors get further fortified with a shower of crispy shallots.
- Save room for dessert. The hojicha tres leches contains an impressive amount of roasted green tea flavor, while a black sesame and brown butter rice crispy treat tastes earthy and not too sweet.
The vibe
The Airliner has grown up since I started going more than a decade ago. The backyard once felt like a frat house strictly used for bumming cigarettes; now, it’s a functioning outdoor patio complete with string lights and heat lamps. Comfortable plush booths and strung-up glowing lanterns set the mood. The curved bar remains the same — a nod to the Airliner’s history.
Insider tip
The Airliner continues to host events and shows, whether it be jazz nights or sports watch parties. Be sure to check out what’s happening at its Instagram.
