When Tanta opened in Chicago way back in 2013, it was a pretty big deal. This was Peruvian giant Gastón Acurio’s first Midwest restaurant (and only his second in the U.S., period). Yet, Tanta has stood the test of time as a stylish, innovative representation
of Peruvian fare in the River North neighborhood, an area where genuinely interesting restaurants compete a lot for space with chains and touristy destinations.
What to order
- The cebiche tasting is the best way to sample the restaurant’s raw offerings; while it’s a financial commitment at $54, these are substantial bowls of raw fish. The clásico and nikkei are worth a taste, but my favorite was the limeño, assertively acidic courtesy of the leche de tigre, while my dining companion favored the subtlety of the nikkei version. A la carte versions of each are available for $27 to $32.
- We asked our server to recommend another starter, and he steered us towards the criollo small bite ($18). Almost a beef nigiri in appearance, the dish pairs salty wagyu and creamy avocado mousse with spice and citrus flavors. An adorable fried quail egg completes the presentation.
- It’s difficult for me to visit a Peruvian restaurant without checking out its version of lomo saltado, the beef, pepper, and fried potato stir fry. Tanta’s version ($39) is a formidable one, with a generous portion, tender beef, and a worthy sauce for the potatoes to soak up.
The vibe
Lotta dudes. Around happy hour on a weekday, the space was dominated by groups of social men (some coworkers, and others friends catching up), gathering over drinks and raw dishes, with a handful of well-dressed couples on dates thrown in. The energy all takes place against a tasteful backdrop, with dramatic green velvet booths, colorful murals, and oversized plants. The weather didn’t make it an option for us, but the rooftop is another draw in warmer months.
Insider tip
Pisco-based cocktails are generally the move here, with the ability to build your own (by contrast, I wasn’t particularly high on the Tanta Tini martini riff, which felt unbalanced). Check out the specials to see if any interesting seasonal pisco cocktails are available; my drink got a pleasant infusion from smoked eucalyptus. Avoiding alcohol? The cinnamon-tastic version of the traditional purple corn-based chicha morada is one of the best versions I’ve had ($12), one of several nonalcoholic choices.
The verdict
Tanta’s still getting the job done if you’re in search of well-executed Peruvian fare in an upscale setting; it also seemed friendly to walk-ins, so it’s a good place to consider if you’re visiting, staying in a downtown neighborhood, and haven’t committed to a dinner plan for the evening.
