Find Men & Beasts in the middle of one of Los Angeles’s busiest intersections on the corner of Alvarado Street and Sunset Boulevard in Echo Park. Before opening the vegan Chinese restaurant last summer, owners Alex Falco and Huimin “Minty” Zhu owned and operated
a similar venture in Miami called Minty Z. Now transported to the former Cosa Buona storefront, Men & Beasts has settled nicely into the neighborhood, attracting a steady crowd at dinnertime and for weekend brunch. The dining room, with its blonde wood slats and gray-washed walls, emits tranquility while a sea of congestion carries on just outside. Everyone’s here for Falco’s vegan riffs on Chinese dishes that Zhu grew up eating, made meat-free without sacrificing flavor. The results defy expectations, rendering Men & Beasts a dining gem for vegans and carnivores alike.
What to order
- Heat-seekers will do well with liangban tofu, a slab of cold silken tofu dressed to the hilt with chiles, peanuts, garlic, chives, and lime. Hold on to the remaining sauce to punch up other dishes on the table once the tofu disappears.
- It’s hard to improve upon barbecued pork buns — an essential dish on every dim sum spread — but the monkey buns manage to do it with plushy exteriors and a sweet-savory filling of homemade char siu seitan.
- Fried rice, dotted with foraged mushrooms and corn, then finished with shaved black truffle, gets a big wok hei hit under Falco’s care. There’s nothing quite like the distinct smoky flavor imparted on food prepared in a well-seasoned, white-hot wok.
- Meatless renditions of Chinese American staples — sweet and sour pork and kung pao chicken — are still deeply satisfying without animal protein; battered and deep-fried mushroom substitute for pork, while crisp tofu replaces chicken.
- For dessert, order the baby carrots tucked beneath the menu’s dim sum section. Made from carrot-infused mochi filled with crushed black sesame paste, the clever trompe l’oeil transforms traditional sesame balls into carrots.
What to drink
While the beverage menu includes wine, beer, and a slate of refreshing shochu-based cocktails, it’s all about tea at Men & Beasts. Zhu grew up on a small tea farm, and her passion for tea culture continues here. Choose from half a dozen thoughtfully sourced oolong teas from Taiwan, including Zhu’s favorite “milky” oolong that mimics the richness of heavy cream. Detailed instructions on how to prepare and consume the tea tableside, along with an hourglass to assist with steeping times, accompany each order.
Insider tip
For those interested in learning more about the history and intention behind gongfu tea ceremonies, Zhu hosts a hands-on class at the restaurant on the first Sunday of every month at 3:30 p.m. The 90-minute session is priced at $51 per person; book on OpenTable.
