The Riggsby’s return was well worth the wait. Celebrity chef Michael Schlow closed the first Dupont iteration of his American hit during the pandemic, then cancelled plans to revive it in Bethesda. Turns out, the Boston-based Schlow missed Dupont so much
– and having a reason to visit his industry friends here (Scott Drewno, Danny Lee), as well as walk to some of his favorite restaurants like Rasika after work – that the Riggsby ultimately came back to where it all began.
The Schlow Burger has always had street cred, winning the people’s choice awards at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival nearly two decades ago. At the new Riggsby, that very burger — topped with melted cheddar, horseradish sauce, and crispy fried onions — is only available at the bar, with just 12 served each night.
Here’s what to eat and drink at the Riggsby 2.0, which settled into the foot of Dupont’s Sonesta hotel this summer.
What to order
- At the opening party, I tried a slider teaser of the burger but tasted the real deal this week. And boy, is it good (and big), made with brisket, chuck, and short rib ground daily. A cute pic of a beaver with an overbite spears the burger. With a copper container of fries, it’s $28.
- The “tableside” wedge wasn’t actually prepared tableside, but its generous chunks of warm Leidy’s bacon stayed crispy until the end, unlike some soggy wedges out there ($19).
- The star starter was a happy accident, Schlow tells me. Crispy, rectangular hash browns form the base for glistening tuna tartare with creme fraiche and caviar ($35). It’s a lovely texture contrast and flavor bomb in each bite.
- Some dishes appear sporadically, depending on what’s in season. A Lancaster farm supplies the heirloom tomatoes and peaches, which bury a sleeper hit on the plate: a bed of well-marinated enoki mushrooms.
- Despite having to get home to my godson CJ (a corgi), the fluffy sundae take on bananas Foster ($19), served in a big crystal goblet and blanketed with an almond crumble, was worth staying around for.
What to drink
- The central bar, back-lit in a white glow, is giving the Shining in the best way. The extra-dirty martini ($20) is one Jack Nicholson would sit and stay for.
- A Paper Plane ($21) — always a good barometer for a bar’s mixology skills — was excellent, here featuring fresh lime and layered look of Chartreuse and Maraschino liquor. And the espresso martini was done just right.
The vibe
- The sprawling dining room is giving mob-wives vibes — again, a compliment — as my three girlfriends and I retired to a comfy, blood-red corner booth under a glam glass sconce shaped like feathers.
- All sorts of framed sketches, paintings of forest creatures, and abstract artwork, set to a not-too-loud soundtrack of songs like Stevie Wonder’s “My Cherie Amour.”
- Don’t expect an everyday tourist crowd who just so happens to be staying in the hotel. Customers here are actually locals, many of whom are former regulars from the original. The Riggsby’s designers at Edit Lab included, who happened to be here the same night I was this week (and about a month before that).
Insider tip
The Riggsby’s snazzy lounge upon entry is getting winter-ready at the moment, with a fireplace installed this week.
