I’m partial to the Temescal Farmers Market on Sunday. Or at least, it thrills me to find myself in that parking lot for a reason other than having to renew my license. But an even bigger draw has come from finding myself, time and time again, on the shaded
patio of this wonderful little coffee shop with a big steaming bowl of shihan ful in front of me.
What to order
- Eritrean food — with its minimal use of dairy and maximal reliance on vegetables developed through cooking techniques and the robust use of spices — is particularly suited for folks who don’t eat meat and those with lactose intolerance. The cafe’s most popular dish, the shihan ful, is a perfect example. Just $10.95 gets you a brimming bowl of vegetable stew made with ground fava beans, tomatoes, and onions, cooked into bliss with Eritrean spices. Two huge loaves of crusty bread accompany it to ensure you can sop up every last drop.
- For something heartier, opt for the tsebhi sga ($14), a hallmark Eritrean dish commonly served at special occasions. Spiced beef and lamb are sauteed with onions, garlic, different peppers, tomatoes, and butter. Scrolls of injera, the springy flatbread also found in Ethiopian and other East African cuisines, are served alongside.
- There is a more continental side of the menu offering things like egg sandwiches and bagels, but I prefer the umbotito ($7.50), a sandwich made with vinegar-seasoned potato stacked atop slices of tomato, lettuce, onion, and green chiles.
What to drink
Coffee. Here, it’s taken very seriously, but not pretentiously so. Their beans, proudly displayed in mounted canisters behind the bar, are fair-trade and ethically sourced. And the brew here is strong — strong enough to stand up to the punchy spices found on the food menu.
Insider tip
If a visit to the DMV is in your future, make the appointment at the Temescal location, and reward yourself before or afterwards with a home-cooked meal.
