It can be tough to decide where to dine out in a metropolitan area filled to the brim with excellent eats. Dining Reports are just one way to get the word out on the restaurants I’m eating at, but the Best Dishes column is where I break down the singular
dishes that stood out, were maybe inadvertently left out of a report, or just haven’t (yet) found their way into coverage — until now. This month’s selections feature restaurants I admittedly haven’t been back to in a while, and the dishes that made me fall in love with them all over again.
Mapo spaghetti with beef at Four Kings
I’ve been a huge fan of Four Kings since its pop-up days, and yet, thanks to my restaurant speed-dating lifestyle, it’s been a minute since I braved the reservation apps or walk-in hoops. And while my table ordered a literal feast of dishes, what I had been really waiting for was the mapo spaghetti. The mala spice is such a distinct flavor that truly hits in the right hands. The numbing flavor gives each bite zing; it’s a feeling I chase. The spaghetti is always cooked to the right texture, al dente for a bit of chew.I was adamant our party add this plate to the table. This and the clay pot rice with Chinese sausage are my steady go-tos at Four Kings, and while I would never stop at just two dishes, it’s the base that forms most of my meals here and the reason why I keep coming back. Four Kings, 710 Commercial St, San Francisco
Lion Dancing Dog at Tallboy
It’s been a moment since I traipsed through the doors of Tallboy, seeking out one of those classic martinis that paved the way to 30,000 martinis sold in 2025. And while the martinis are a worthy Best Dishes shoutout, the Lion Dancing Dog was a real highlight. It’s a spicy ‘lil hot dog made vegan with an Impossible Foods frank, and I couldn’t have been happier with this as my lunch. It comes absolutely loaded with fried shallots, peanuts, and fresh cilantro, while a cucumber gives it crisp, fresh oomph. Sambal mayo adds heat to each bite, along with soy-pickled jalapeños. A wedge of lime gave it a lovely, light citrus tang, and all in all? I didn’t even notice or care that the whole dang thing is vegan. (Does this make it healthier? I’d like to believe yes.) With a Modelito in hand, this hot dog hit the spot, especially on a not-yet-crowded summer Friday afternoon. Tallboy, 4210 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland
Corn dog bites at Burdell
Totally unplanned from Wednesday’s news that Burdell chef Geoff Davis will open his second restaurant, Uncle’s, and also unplanned from the fact that, yes, this is another hot dog-esque bite. (Summer is for glizzies. I don’t make the rules.) I just really, really liked this corn dog bite on Burdell’s bar menu. It’s easy to point out other hits in the Burdell signature repertoire, like the chicken liver and waffle (she’s still got it, by the way!), but it’s nice to see the restaurant continue to expand and grow with this newish bar menu. The corn dog bite boasts an heirloom corn breading that has a nice crunch on the exterior and a true corn flavor that comes through in each bite. That’s not even to mention the cheddar and bacon sausage, which honestly stands on its own as a truly excellent dog. The corn dogs are dangerously easy to wolf down in two minutes, dipped in the accompanying mustard. I had to hold myself back from demolishing my plate too quickly, a similar sentiment shared by my seatmate who was experiencing the same issue. The bar menu offers another reason to pop into Burdell for a quick (corn dog) bite and glass of wine, and I can’t wait to bop around to other items like fish stix on my next visit. Burdell, 4640 Telegraph Avenue, Oakland
