The editors at Eater Los Angeles dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Tuna mini “burger” from Maison Kanatha in Little Tokyo
On weekends, the
Sushi Kaneyoshi omakase counter becomes Maison Kanatha, a Japanese and Thai tasting menu from chefs Shingo Kato and Niki Vanichsiriwat. The chefs explore their culinary backgrounds through a broadly French lens (though that influence is less apparent), served in an array of kaiseki-style small plates. Kato was previously at Michelin-starred Uka while Vanichsiriwat works at Kaneyoshi behind chef Yoshiyuki Inoue. In addition to caviar-topped white sesame mousse and green curry pani puri with snow crab, the chefs sear bluefin tuna slices at the counter using a hot piece of charcoal, spitting off mesmerizing billows of saline smoke. Placed on tiny plush milk bread buns and smeared with cream cheese, the result is a cheeky bite that I wish came in a much larger size so I could enjoy more of it. The meal progresses through more Thai-inflected snacks, such as somen noodles in shrimp tom yum and grilled Wagyu pieces with tamarind ponzu, that show a whimsical and ultimately delicious intersection of two cuisines. But damn, give me another one of those tuna mini burgers. 250 First Street, Los Angeles, CA 90012. — Matthew Kang, correspondent, Eater
Brisket phở from Phở 87 in Chinatown
Over the weekend, Los Angeles made its annual transition from June Gloom into full-blown summer, leaving behind 73-degree weather and the morning marine layer for pulsing sunshine and upper-80s heat. Still, even in this enveloping warmth, I parked myself inside Phở 87 on the north end of Chinatown. Open since 1987, it’s one of the most notable longstanding Vietnamese restaurants in Los Angeles, where the ultimate meal remains imperial pork egg rolls, iced coffee so potent that it can wake up the dead, and a hearty phở tai nam gau with steak, flank, and a delightfully fatty brisket that cools the body and soul. Those who know understand the restorative nature of a steaming bowl of phở, which, according to Los Angeles Magazine, stimulates heat-sensing nerves that instruct the body to cool down. Phở 87’s broth has so much depth to look forward to, so sip and guess the aromatics before adding the basil, bean sprouts, or desired levels of Sriracha and hoisin. 1019 N. Broadway, Chinatown, CA 90012. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
Dungeness crab omelet from Clark’s Oyster Bar in Malibu
I spent the long holiday weekend eating seafood (we said bye to Connie and Ted’s one more time on its last night, July 3) and hot dogs (two visits to Earle’s on Crenshaw because there is no better chicken link in Los Angeles). One of the best seafood experiences came from Clark’s Oyster Bar in Malibu, the high-end seafood restaurant born in Texas Hill Country that has since grown a California presence in Malibu, Montecito, and Menlo Park. The Malibu location, perched at the Park at Cross Creek across from a Kith store that perpetually fields a line of tourists, may not sit on the beach but gets the seaside vibration down with wooden pendant fans, white ceiling rafters, and other seafood restaurant paraphernalia (American flags, rattan light fixtures, possibly an anchor motif). Inside, find teal booths and rounded tables with cushioned mid-century-style chairs; the wraparound outdoor patio houses sunny yellow-striped sofas and communal tables that would be perfect for a big-group birthday dinner. While Clark’s namesake wedge salad (take the wallet hit and add grilled shrimp) and grilled oysters satisfied, the best dish may have been the brunch-coded Dungeness crab omelet, which comes bathed in hollandaise and with a pleasing amount of buttery crab nested in its golden layers. This was a large, masterful omelet made even better with its side of crispy marbled potatoes shaken in red chimichurri (they taste like patatas bravas if you close your eyes). Come on a Sunday and hit the adjacent Malibu farmers market after to make a day of it. 23465 Civic Center Way, Malibu, CA 90265. — Nicole Fellah, Eater editorial manager
Mentaiko spaghetti from the Airliner in Lincoln Heights
I haven’t been to the Airliner since Low End Theory, the weekly underground hip hop and beats party that once popped off every Wednesday night, ended in 2018. I realize this was a mistake: the Airliner was revamped in 2023 after briefly closing and now has an izakaya-style menu with influences from Japanese, Chinese, and Thai cuisines. (The food also remains approachable and friendly to vegetarian, vegan, dairy-free, and gluten-free diets.) My favorite dish on a recent visit to see a friend play a show was the mentaiko spaghetti, which included savory pops of pollock roe eggs nestled in tangles of spaghetti — all freshened by chiffonade shiso. The sauce itself tasted sweet and nutty from brown butter with a welcomed sharpness thanks to garlic aioli and an added layer of salinity from thin slices of nori. Even if I’m not coming for a show, I want to slide up to the Airliner’s bar just for its incredible food. 2419 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90031. — Kat Thompson, audience editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest
