Nikkei cuisine melds Peruvian ingredients with Japanese techniques; it’s a relatively new genre dating back to just 1889. You can now find it at Kaiyo Handroll Bar, a new restaurant championing Nikkei food in San Francisco, and it joins sister concepts
Kaiyo Restaurant and Rooftop Bar, which opened in 2024 and 2022, respectively. The hand roll bar is a relaunch of Kaiyo’s original Union Street space, which debuted in 2018, this time refocused on hand rolls as the centerpiece of the menu. Paired with Peruvian classics and unique twists to the genre, as well as a charming cocktail menu to match, Kaiyo Handroll Bar stands to be a compelling new addition to the Union Street neighborhood.
The vibe
In keeping with the theme of Peru and Japan, the owners sought to bring elements of both into the decor. The open, street-facing patio is more lush and filled with plants, representing the Peruvian rainforests with its greenery. Inside, diners are transported into a night market, with neon lights, artwork depicting lively business signage in Japan, and paper umbrellas that hang from the ceiling. It’s a different look than that of the space that launched in 2018, but the moodier feel is more fitting, especially given the restaurant’s ambitions to become a destination cocktail lounge after the kitchen closes.
What to order
- The item that should acquaint diners fastest with the Nikkei hand roll concept is the wagyu lomo saltado ($14). Here, A5 wagyu pairs with shoestring potatoes, tomato, and onion in a nori wrapper, turning the popular Peruvian dish into a handheld with chicha morada rice as the base. It’s a fun bite that’s a worthy starter to the meal.
- The ebiten acevichado ($9), which mixes diced salmon and diced tuna with a single piece of shrimp tempura, is another standout. The crisp shrimp had a nice crunch and bite to it, offset by the use of salmon and tuna underneath.
- The arroz con pato hand roll ($9) is another favorite, pairing seared, roast duck with sansho pepper. It’s an indulgent duck bite that somehow translates over to the hand roll format, especially when paired with the cilantro rice.
- Along with the Nikkei hand rolls, diners can also expect a selection of “classic” hand rolls that lean more into what one would expect of a Japanese hand roll spot (think an uni-toro, with bluefin tuna and uni, or diced salmon). There’s even a section for tiraditos and ceviche. But for mains, I really enjoyed the scallop udon in mentaiko sauce ($32), a saucy noodle dish that gets some heat thanks to native-to-Peru rocoto peppers. The rocoto pepper is infused into a dashi cream sauce and gets a salty edge from mentaiko roe, and sweetness from seared scallops. Next time, I have on my docket to check out the vegetarian matcha fettuccine ($26), which pairs matcha tea pasta with mushrooms and a walnut pesto (and it’s allegedly a staff favorite).
The drinks
The cocktail menu from Danny Louie is a playful one, incorporating fresh produce into many of the drinks. The Orenji ($19) is a good one to start with, especially for those with a soft spot for Orange Julius, as this drink mixes fresh orange juice with condensed milk and vanilla syrup for that hit of mall nostalgia, with rum as the base. The Chuhai ($19) is made with basil, green apple, honey, coconut, and lime, with Japanese whisky; the green apple and lime give the drink a tart flavor that’s balanced by the coconut and honey.
Also on the menu is a selection of beers that skew more toward imports such as Hitachino and Yoho Brewing Company, with a few outliers like locally owned Fort Point and a Cusqueña lager that’s made in Peru. There is also sake from Japan and a wine selection that spans European growers and California.
For nonalcoholic options, there are three options to choose from, along with two mixed matcha beverages that should catch the eye of any matcha stans. The Kukki ($11) is a fun and unusual one, where matcha gets an unlikely pairing with pineapple juice, Oreo milk, and vanilla syrup.
Insider tip
If the two dessert options (bread pudding and creme brulee) don’t speak to you, hiding in plain sight on the bar menu are the restaurant’s soft serve options. It’s likely there because there are five alcohol-included flavors (rum, coconut, passionfruit, cream, or matcha, all $16 each) and two nonalcoholic options (matcha or vanilla, $8 each). Share it with a friend, and make sure to appreciate the homemade waffle cone, which is a really nice touch for the soft serve.
