Tonight, I’ll attend the Michelin California ceremony for the third time. The big reveal is taking place in San Diego, where the three-starred Addison has elevated the fine dining scene in recent years, so I expect greater-than-average results for the home
crowd. There are a lot of other interesting opportunities at the awards this year, too. Michelin has long been in a rut, mostly awarding French, European, and Japanese restaurants. If anyone can break through that trifecta, it’s an operation from California’s hugely diverse landscape of cuisines. The organization also recently quietly did away with its sustainability-focused green stars (though they did award them a few weeks ago in Vietnam); I’m curious to see how Michelin approaches sustainability in a state where it’s so crucial to many restaurant operations.
At 113 total stars (but who’s counting), California already has more stars than any other in the nation — yet, I still think Michelin is actually grading California on a harder curve than other states (looking at you, Florida and Texas). There are many more restaurants that deserve recognition, and this year could be their chance.
Make your reservations now before the winners blow up.
Three stars
I’m betting all eight current three-star holders (Benu, the French Laundry, Quince, Somni, Providence, Addison, Singlethread, and Atelier Crenn) will keep their awards, as they haven’t seen too much change.
Out of all the current two-starred ones, I predict San Francisco’s Sons & Daughters will earn a third star. The new Nordic- and British-inflected tasting menu restaurant has settled into its new location, outfitted with a swanky new kitchen, since its move in summer 2025. I tried chef Harrison Cheney’s cooking at a collab dinner at Mélisse earlier this year and it was excellent.
If I had another pick for a promotion, I would love to see Sonoma’s Enclos gain its third star. I went in March and experienced a truly topflight meal and wine pairing that reflects perfect produce, world-class proteins, and polished service. I could see Enclos becoming the new vanguard of North American wine country cuisine, as influential as the French Laundry was 30 years ago.
Two stars
Last year, two restaurants in Los Angeles made headlines by earning three stars: Somni in West Hollywood and Providence on Melrose Avenue (both previously held two stars and are highly deserving of three). I imagine Hayato, Mélisse, and Vespertine are doing everything to make their cases for their own promotions to three stars, but I don’t see the organization awarding three to more LA spots so soon. Instead, I think the city will retain all of its two-starred restaurants.
Two-starred Northern Californian restaurants should hold most of their awards, as well. I think Saison, a former three-starred restaurant that now holds two, unfortunately won’t regain its third; inspectors have to compare it to the version under founding chef Joshua Skenes, which I remember as one of the most brilliant, memorable meals of my life. I haven’t had the version prepared by Richard Lee, so I’ll save full judgment for a future visit.
I predict one-starred restaurants Kato in Los Angeles, Ssal in San Francisco, Caruso’s in Montecito, and Lilo in Carlsbad will earn their second stars. I’ve been to all four, all worthy of the upgrade. Kato’s flavor bombs, commitment to traditional Taiwanese flavors, and stellar cocktails make it stand out. Ssal’s polished Korean cooking made for one of the most memorable tastings last year. Caruso’s displayed a superb level of modern Italian Californian finesse in a wonderful beachside dining room. Lilo’s overall experience is multifaceted and extremely compelling.
One star demotions
There’s usually the most movement among one-starred restaurants. Let’s start off with the demotions right off the bat.
I think Auro in Calistoga, which lost founding chef Rogelio Garcia earlier this year, will lose a star. While Michelin hasn’t typically said a lot about restaurant bad actors, the reports of an alleged toxic workplace at Sacramento’s Localis will likely lead to its demotion. Dominique Crenn already announced that Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn will close. My SF-based colleague Dianne de Guzman told me she felt O’ by Claude Le Tohic was too predictable, making it a potential demotion.
In Los Angeles, I think Kali’s turn from a seasonal tasting menu to a comfort-leaning steakhouse menu will lead to a demotion (though I’m sure the food’s still great). I have doubts about Rebel Omakase in Laguna Beach retaining a star, given the disappointing bite of sashimi I had from the restaurant a few years ago at a Michelin event.
The new one stars
I don’t think Michelin will actually add a ton of new one-stars, but I’m going to overreach here and suggest a broad range of nominees I hope make the list.
Los Angeles area
Lielle: This modern California tasting menu is my pick for the best opening of the year in Los Angeles (so far). The $150, four-course tasting menu is a revelation from chef Marcus Jernmark, previously of Frantzén in Stockholm.
Corridor 109: Chef Brian Baik’s Japanese-inflected tasting menu has hints of his Koreatown upbringing and changes with the ocean’s seasons. Fans of Cesar and Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare (one of the many fine dining places Baik worked at) will like Corridor’s unabashed quest to find the best seafood.
Sora Craft Kitchen: This one-man Turkish tasting menu restaurant in Downtown LA has received plenty of critical acclaim.
Bar Sawa: A sushi bar-cum-cocktail bar at the Kaneyoshi-plex (where one-starred omakase Kaneyoshi and modern Korean counter Ki also reside) is due for its star.
Miura: Derek Wilcox, a veteran sushi chef, took over the hallowed counter that was once two-starred Urasawa (and before that Ginza Sushi-ko) for a luxe omakase experience that’s prime Michelin bait.
Baroo: I really hope Kwang Uh and Mina Park’s affordable, modern Korean tasting menu in the Arts District earns a star.
Sonagi: At my favorite overall sushi spot in Gardena (and not just because it’s 10 minutes from my home), Daniel Son weaves in Korean American flavors and narrative with a top-notch omakase.
San Diego area:
Lucien: San Diego’s modern tasting menu, which opened in mid-July, is primed for its Michelin spotlight as the ceremony comes to the 619 for the first time.
24 Suns: Oceanside’s modern Chinese restaurant, with its reasonable $150 tasting and curated a la carte menu, should give the San Diego County city its second Michelin star (after the truly superb modern Mexican restaurant Valle).
San Francisco area:
Maria Isabel: Dianne has high hopes for this polished modern Mexican restaurant in San Francisco, which also serves a reasonably priced $90 tasting menu.
Vicinity: This Los Gatos restaurant really aligns with what Michelin is looking for: a visually stunning tasting menu with more of an artsy, conceptual presentation (it reminds me heavily of Vespertine in LA).
Naides: This impressive Filipino tasting menu could be just the second Filipino restaurant in the U.S. to earn a star if it succeeds (the other is two-starred Kasama in Chicago). The only thing going against Naides might be its relative youth, since it opened in December.
Wolfsbane: This 12-course tasting in San Francisco, priced at $248 a person before luxe add-ons, is fairly standard Michelin stuff. Michelin’s own early write-up suggests the inspector really enjoyed it, though Dianne noted the latter half of the menu lacks focus.
The ceremony will take place tonight, June 24. Look out for coverage on Eater LA this evening, and my analysis and any hot juicy gossip I gather at the event soon after.
