Chef Kevin Meehan’s perspective shifted when he realized that the California-inspired, produce-oriented tasting menu he had served for nearly a decade at his Melrose Avenue restaurant Kali had started feeling tired. So in July 2025, inspired by the timelessness
of Musso & Frank, Meehan turned his menu into an ode to midcentury steakhouses. Though that brought a wide martini menu, wood-grilled chops, and reliable side dishes, Meehan thought the menu change would lead to the loss of the restaurant’s Michelin star. It thankfully didn’t, even as Kali has become more of a regular neighborhood hangout with a bustling bar that projects every Dodger game on the wall and a dimly lit dining room gathering meat-seeking Angelenos. It’s a formula that should outlast any dining trends for the foreseeable future.
On the menu
- Inspired by Koreatown, Meehan seasoned his beef tartare with the sweet-salty flavors of yukhoe, though making it a little saucier than the traditional Korean dish. Paired with the steakhouse tomato salad topped with a peppery mound of arugula, it’s an umami-laden way to start what will likely be a very substantial meal.
- Deep-fried scallop cake, a take on the more popular crab cake, shows a bit of the finesse that Meehan’s kitchen can pull off; chunks of the sweeter shellfish best the sometimes stringier crustacean. Fresh dill imbues every spoonful of tartare sauce beneath, adding a fresh, vegetal punch to every bite.
- Mushroom risotto ($35), a rice-based take on one of the original Kali tasting menu dishes that Meehan made with black garlic and barley, works as a formidable middle course or creamy accompaniment to the beef. Zig-zagged with herb oil and garnished with fried basil, the risotto allows for four and five spoonfuls before you may feel overloaded on richness. (Still, you’ll reach for more.)
- Fans of Mastro’s will like the herb- and garlic-heavy steak presentation. We ordered the pre-sliced and well-seared rib-eye $99 and the New York strip ($85), served with a grilled lemon and roasted head of garlic, plus Meehan’s signature black garlic sauce. You can also get typical steakhouse sauces like chimichurri, bearnaise, and steak sauce (the restaurant’s take on A1) for $5 apiece. The steaks are exemplary, meltingly tender and perfumed from at least a few weeks of dry-aging.
- The baked potato could be the best version in town, loaded with cheddar, bacon bits, sour cream, scallions, and chives so finely chopped that Rate My Chives would be obliged to give it at least a 9 out of 10.
Best for
Dodger fans who want more than the standard sports bar fare; Musso & Frank fans who couldn’t get a reservation at the classic Hollywood haunt; business dinners where your clients will walk away agreeing to whatever you want thanks to that strong martini; steakhouse fans who want fine dining–level elegance without the fuss.
Insider tip
Kali’s classic martinis that come with more than a dozen customizations arrive with a side car, a la Musso & Frank. But the Martinez could be the most impressive drink on the menu, mixing gin, vermouth, Luxardo maraschino, and orange bitters for a balanced, refreshing sipper.
The takeaway
Steakhouses have been trending lately: they run the gamut from casual to extravagant. Kali sticks to a tried-and-true formula in an approachable space that belies its Michelin-worthiness. Pop in for a drink and a steak at the bar, or go all-out in the dining room with the most refined steakhouse experience in Los Angeles.
