Diners have come to know chef and restaurateur Susan Dunn through her time at Pizzetta 211, and as co-owner of Pearl 6101 on California Street and Paladar 511 in New Orleans. But while her other projects have focused on pizza, Cal-Mediterranean, and seafood,
respectively, the throughline of those restaurants have been in celebrating seasonality and local produce, and that’s much of what diners can expect from Esme — Dunn’s solo project, which opened inside the Metro Hotel in San Francisco in June 2026.
At Esme, the menu skews toward French bistro offerings — with some California influence — in a casual setting. Expect the menu to shift with the season, and an early July dinner saw dishes bursting with summer vegetables like squash, grilled stone fruit, and English peas. The restaurant is tagged as “Your Beloved Neighborhood Bistro,” on the menu, and Esme comes pretty close to nailing those vibes.
The vibe
Step off busy Divisadero into Esme and you’re immediately swaddled into the cozy environment. It’s a small space with fun touches: a line of wine bottles on a thin rail over the tables, mirrors that double as menus featuring specials, and warm globe lights hanging from the ceiling. I know I use the word “transportive” a lot, but in my defense, my table got to talking about the cities that Esme reminded us of, before we landed on New York and Paris. (So it’s not just me!) Two tables get views of the street, but otherwise you’ll likely get caught up in the friendly environment and conversation with your dining partners. Those seated at the small bar toward the back get a show with the meal, thanks to the open(ish) kitchen just beyond the counter. A gallery wall on the north side of the restaurant keeps things interesting with an eclectic mix of art and books.
What to order
- I don’t think I’ve tired of new editions of Caesar. Esme’s Little Gems Caesar ($13) is served under a blanket of Parmesan and market-fresh Little Gems lettuce. The dressing is good — and who hates a snowfall of Parmesan? Not I. But what really gave this dish some oomph were the breadcrumbs. Rather than chonky croutons, the buttery breadcrumbs allowed more even distribution per bite, an underrated approach that punched up the flavor and texture.
- Am I the only one who’s had mid tuna tartare lately? Whatever the case may be, Esme’s version reminded me of what a good tuna tartare can truly be ($16). The tartare comes studded with avocado, capers, and shallots, plus dots of rouille on top. The texture was spot-on for a tartare — thoroughly mixed but not falling apart, making for a spread that has a soft bite to it. The addition of semolina crackers is another inspired move; rather than, say, a dry cracker or saltine, the semolina is a not-drying vessel for each bite without taking over the flavors.
- The linguine ($23) comes with Manila clams and cured tomatoes for a lovely burst of flavor. The dish delivers a good amount of clams, and a hearty dose of those aforementioned breadcrumbs, adding heft and soakable bread nooks for the tomatoes and sauce to absorb into. It’s an engaging mix of textures with tender clams, the crisp of breadcrumbs, and the bite of linguine, held together by a backbone of tomato.
- The seared black cod ($32) is the standout of the main dishes (or, here, Les Plats Principaux). The crisp cod skin held up wonderfully on its trip to the table, with tender fish underneath. The vegetables it was plated with made this dish a standout; beneath the cod is a mix of Romano beans, cherry tomato halves, and slices of squash, all held together by a basil hollandaise. I found myself swiping bites through each part of the sauce.
The crowd
The beverage menu largely focuses on wine, with plenty of options available by the glass or bottle. For glasses, the recent menu starts at $12 before ballooning to a height of $25 for a glass of Champagne, which means most should be able to find something good to sip on. As for bottles, the price range is generous, with a number of bottles priced under $80 before going into the $100-plus category. It’s a good spot to explore a range of French options from a variety of producers. Outside of wine, there’s a seasonal spritz, and three beer options, all of which hail from France. The nonalcoholic options are fairly limited, with just sodas, sparkling Vichy Catalon, and blood orange soda from Lorina.
Insider tip
Esme is still in its New Kid phase, with early seatings going quickly on Resy. Still, there are ways to get in: Those who enjoy later dinners can still slide into some lingering reservations for 8:30 p.m. onwards. Plus, the bar is reserved for walk-ins, and while it’s just five seats, it’s easy enough to dip in early to put your name down on the list before absconding somewhere else to wait, such as the Page.
