Even after 15 years, chefs Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama continue to lure Angelenos nightly to Michelin-starred n/naka. The bustle of West Los Angeles vanishes the moment diners step through the understated entrance and follow the curved araidashi
stone path. Inside, the dining room is a calming bastion of dark gray shikkui lime plaster; warm wood; and soft, rounded edges. Smartly suited servers preside over the evening with warm and attentive care, while diners celebrating milestones lend a festive air to the room. Over the course of three hours, the chefs deliver 13 meticulously plated courses rooted in Japanese tradition but wholly Southern Californian in spirit. This is modern kaiseki, executed with elegance and precision by two Los Angeles–born chefs who honor seasonality and capture a distinct sense of place through impeccable ingredients sourced from California, Japan, and their own Culver City garden.
What to order
- Everyone takes part in the 13-course tasting menu ($395 per person). The progression stays grounded in tradition, while the execution and interpretation are driven by the chefs’ whims and the seasonal produce. The mushimono, or steamed course, arrives halfway through the tasting menu and currently featuresa delicate dumpling made with Dungeness crab and shrimp, served in a bright tomato dashi that’s equally warm and satisfying.
- The shiizakana, or chef’s choice, has remained constant since day one, featuring a tangle of spaghetti in a mentaiko sauce that clings to every toothsome strand. Abalone, black truffle, and kaiware (daikon radish sprouts) add balance and texture to the rich, savory pasta.
- Before dessert is served, diners are treated to a parade of shokuji (sushi). The half-dozen delicate nigiri reflect chef Niki’s reverence and expertise for the craft. (She sold her first restaurant, Azami Sushi Cafe on Melrose Avenue, to fund the opening of n/naka.)
- Summer melons at the height of ripeness take center stage for the final sweet send-off.
What to drink
Diners can select from two beverage pairings — curated ($195) and premium ($395) — that feature pours intentionally split between wines and sakes. On a recent visit, sommelier Devin Davenport delightfully matched a lightly effervescent sake from Japan’s Kochi Prefecture with the shokuji course. A naturally sweet late-harvest Riesling from Germany’s Mosel region anchored the evening’s fruit-centered desserts. An à la carte wine and sake menu also remains available, along with a few non-alcoholic options.
Insider tip
To ensure that no one departs from n/naka wanting for more, blue crab hand rolls get served right before dessert to quell any remaining hunger pangs. But for those whose appetites far exceed a fine dining tasting menu, chef Roy Choi’s Kogi truck is often parked across the street on Overland Avenue. Sampling two Los Angeles legends in one night? Now, that’s an iconic bang-bang.
