I’ll admit I was skeptical the first time I rolled up to Eugene’s Mr. Dumpling. It’s tucked away in a commercial building, surrounded by a multistory apartment complex just off Delta Ponds and Goodpasture Island Road — which in my mind is basically the mall.
But my initial excursion left me a touch jealous. Should I rent an apartment here? The ponds are lovely, and there’s such good soup and dumplings in walking distance. As I learned, co-owner Ashley Li trained in dumpling-making in Wenzhou in the southeast of Zhejiang province, which explains why these dumplings are so darned good. Alexander Loop dwellers should consider themselves lucky.
What to order
- The wontons in chile oil ($10) were fresh and plump, their well-filled wrappers holding their own against the numbing oil.
- The pickled fish noodles ($16) came in an absolute vat of a bowl filled with cloudy, golden broth with a vinegar tang, thick springy wheat noodles, soft fish, cabbage, and mushrooms, with added heat from dried chiles.
- It is important to order the bao zi. I sampled both the sweet red bean-filled steamed buns and the pan-fried curried beef. My dining partner and I remarked that they were perhaps the best Chinese buns we’ve had — soft, tender dough that wasn’t so bready as to overwhelm the rich fillings on the inside. The portions were large, too. Each order came with six bao for $13.
- The pan-fried pork, shrimp, and chive dumplings ($14 for 10 dumplings) were piping hot and juicy. Approach with caution or risk burning your mouth; make sure to dip in the black vinegar and chile oil condiments available on the table.
- Something called Secret Beef Brisket ($15) demands to be ordered. What is the secret? The people need to know! Well, folks, the secret is a rich beef gravy filled with large, tender chunks of beef, toothsome potatoes, and tender squash. It pairs well with the side of rice. It’s a rich dish that would satisfy someone in your dining party who is more attuned to American Chinese cuisine, but still wants to hang.
What to drink
The sour plum juice is gently sweet and a nice, cool complement to all of the salty, hot Chinese food.
Take note
Mr. Dumpling is no longer a sleeper hit. While my first visit was decidedly low-key thanks to the early afternoon hour, the restaurant was packed during my recent dinnertime trip. Every table was filled with a mix of large groups, friends, and people dropping in to collect takeout orders. Dumplings and dishes came out quickly, but it took more time to place orders and eventually get the check. Still, nobody seemed to be bothered by it because the food was so good.
Insider tip
If you’re an adzuki bean fiend like me, wait to place an order for red bean bao zi until the end of the meal. My dining partner and I placed our full dinner order all at once, and this decidedly dessert-filled steamer basket came out before our savory items.
The verdict
If you’re a lover of dumplings or simply just wanting to explore Eugene’s small but mighty Chinese food scene, Mr. Dumpling should certainly be on the agenda. It’s a crowdpleaser and a not-so-hidden gem that still feels off the beaten path.
