What is the story about?
Dupont’s eclectic Persian place just turned two, and if its jam-packed anniversary party was any indication, the restaurant has clearly found its footing in the center of the city.
At Darvish, D.C. nightlife vet Masoud Aboughaddareh and his wife, Golnaz,
pay homage to their native Shiraz – the cultural capital of Iran known for its Persian gardens and picturesque architecture.
What to order
- Pomegranate, Iran’s prized fruit, plays a big role across the menu. The jeweled pods stud velvety hummus whipped with tahini, while pomegranate molasses builds a tart, almost too-thick Lavashak Dream cocktail with Grey Goose, sour cherry juice, and a tahini–sumac rim.
- The soup of the day ($14) was a warm, silky green pistachio soup sprinkled with dates – a fitting pregame for fall that Golnaz was enjoying at the downstairs bar. Pistachio has shown up here since day one, as a house-made syrup for the nutty espresso martini.
- The saffron-marinated chicken kebab that former WaPo food critic Tom Sietsema praised early on is apparently good as ever; our friend, who had already eaten dinner, finished off his whole plate.
- Foot-long fluffy flatbread that takes a trip through a clay oven is a prime pull-apart vessel for just about any dip ($14). Opt for the creamy eggplant one with whey, sauteed onions, garlic, and mint (the white yogurt with dried shallots was a close second), placed on an adorable plate holder resembling mini Persian carpets.
- A pair of palm-sized crispy rice discs ($20) comes topped with a dollop of Persian stews – ghormeh sabzi and gheymeh bademjan – simmered with tender meat, spinach, herbs, and yellow split peas. Each bite offers a nice crunchy-saucy textural contrast.
The look
- Golnaz transformed the space from its former Mari Vanna days with lots of installation art and nods to Iran. A big wooden chest lit up in blue showcases empty bottles of Rémy Martin and wine from the power couple’s wedding, each wearing turquoise necklaces.
- Placards of actual Iranian streets like Basiri Alley, a hub of Tehran’s art scene, are part of the brick-walled intermission leading to the second level.
- The stylish third-floor Kolbeh lounge is lined with black-and-white photos of family members and friends. A glittery lion head, which was originally somewhat lost against the Victorian wallpaper in the lounge, now commands more attention above the bar.
The vibe
- The pick-your-own adventure of a space starts with a soaring first floor surrounded by cozy cushioned nooks under glowing candelabras, followed by a mezzanine level where bigger groups (like ours) can easily break bread (and hear) around a circular table. Two-tops along the wooden railing get a bird’s-eye view of the bar action below.
- The pinnacle is where the party is at: a low-ceilinged, LED-lit level full of well-tailored suits and skirts that sees a parade of hookahs on any given night. For show, there are retro radios on display; for play, there are JBL speakers blasting crystal-clear DJ remixes set to Persian percussionists. Sitter beware: The soft, long sofas up top are hard to get up from once you sink in.
Insider tip
Tables of two or more can opt in for the $70-per-person meal deal that includes a family-style starter, entree, and dessert.
