There’s much to explore when looking at the intersection of Jamaican and Chinese diasporic cultures. Records show that, as early as 1854, English plantation owners in Jamaica brought over Chinese and Southeast Asian migrants to work as indentured laborers.
ABL, a new restaurant located in a thrumming part of Hollywood, presents as a compelling blend of these two cultures, as owner Aja Dawson and her mother, Barbara (who also owns Downtown’s A Beautiful Life restaurant and food truck), explore their family’s heritage in dishes such as jerk-fried egg rolls and chen pi ji–style chicken wings. The 35-seat dining room and bar feels like an intimate hideaway in the busy corner of Cahuenga and Hollywood Boulevards. Its menu tells the story of the cohesion of people in diaspora and cannot be reduced to trendy “fusion” — so go with friends, order the oxtail lo mein, and learn about the history of Jamaica’s historic Chinese communities in earnest.
What to order
- The restaurant has dishes designed to please longtime A Beautiful Life fans, such as oxtail macaroni and cheese, traditional beef and vegetarian patties, coco bread, and an oxtail platter with caramelized plantains and rice and peas.
- Everyone should order the oxtail lo mein for the table. The slow-braised oxtail and hand-pulled noodles with ginger, soy, and sesame make the perfect introduction to ABL’s heritage.
- Oysters get doused with jerk seasoning before being fried to a satisfying crisp.
- Larger dishes include deep-fried whole escovitch snapper laced with fiery Scotch bonnet pepper, citrus ginger branzino, and a curry fried rice. Each is easily shared, but know that the escovitch packs a fiery bite.
- The chen pi ji wings are reminiscent of orange chicken, which somehow perfectly strikes right in between both regions. They’re delightfully sticky and slightly spicy.
- During her childhood, Aja recalls her mother preparing jerk chicken bao. This dish will make its debut on ABL’s menu in late summer, along with bao filled with oxtails — something to look forward to for diners who have already been to the restaurant and need a reason to revisit.
The vibe
Aja designed the interior herself and committed fully to a dark burgundy motif throughout. ABL is moody, low-lit, and dark in the best way. Custom textured banquettes are tucked along the walls, while a bright neon-red sign that reads “abl” in lowercase script emits an ethereal glow at the entrance. Casual dress is always welcome, but one might want to consider fun clothing to match the room.
Insider tip
ABL hosts curated events with a DJ, as well as their version of happy hour with snacks and an open bar. Check ABL’s Instagram to see what’s happening.
