West Village’s new Korean-ish neo bistro Somssi feels like it’s been in the neighborhood for a while, but it’s only been open since June. Owner Ahris Kim crafted a homey restaurant, and with the help of chef Daniel Gronert, assembled a menu of intriguing
dishes without coming across as fussy. Notably, Kim had been the director of operations for Atomix and Atoboy, two of the city’s defining modern Korean restaurants; Somssi is her first solo project.
What to order
- The aptly named Potato Potato Potato ($32) is THE dish of the year, deceptively simple, yet intricate in flavors and textures. It’s essentially a huge tater tot with a crispy-laced potato exterior leading the way to a soft potato puree, served with a big serving of caviar and sitting on top of a miso-hollandaise sauce.
- The grilled ox tongue ($33) was such a wonderfully unexpected meat entree. Plainly displayed on the plate, the meat has a nice bite with texture that slightly changes depending on what section you’re eating. Pair it with wasabi and romesco cream.
- I adored the messy Gulf shrimp ($28) drenched in chile oil and served on top of a smoked, crunchy corn mayonnaise. Suck on the heads and discard the shells with the extra plate; the staff will also offer up hand wipes, because you should eat these with your hands.
- The kumquat and corn olive oil cake with lime Chantilly ($14) is a pleasant way to end the meal.
What to drink
Head bartender Christian Gray’s little cocktails are delightful and great. My Countermand ($11) was a slightly sweet vermouth-gin-maraschino drink. Get expert sommelier Jenny Eagleton to guide you through the wine options, and don’t skip the small after-dinner drinks.
The space
The dining rooms, designed with Margaret Muza, feel timeless, cozy, and rustic. I adored the embroidered white lace and crochet curtains over the windows and the one behind the main glass door with the name of the restaurant stitched into the fabric. Ask about the fabric with the year 1987 stitched onto it hanging over a brick wall inside. I was also delighted by the handprints in the bathroom, which were initialed by the people who were involved in creating the restaurant, as Kim tells me.
Best for
Solo dining, date nights, and intimate friend hangs.
Insider tip
Get a double-dose of White Rabbit (the candy) by ordering the White Rabbit ice cream with spicy/savory five-spice candied peanuts ($10 from the dessert menu). Grab a couple of the actual candies from the host stand on your way out.
