The summer weather in San Francisco is famously mercurial, moving from overcast, foggy mornings to pitch-perfect blue skies in the afternoon, and breezy-windy-chilly nights.
And to be honest, it’s the best.
Rather than sweating through a heat wave, the city
by the bay’s temperate weather pairs gloriously with lessened crowds, easy walks, and excellent bites. With the luxury of a staycation, rather than the schlep of getting home on a plane, it means more time for discovering the rhythm of the city during the morning, evening, and everything in between.
FRIDAY EVENING
Check into the Jay Hotel
Pretend to be a luxury traveler atthe Jay Hotel (433 Clay Street). No offense to the scene in Union Square, but it’s in a much more serene spot near historic Jackson Square. The hotel got a multi-million dollar renovation and reopened in 2023 — its striking Brutalist exterior architecture revealing stunning modern interiors by design firm Avroko. Oh, and in-house dining is all courtesy of theOmakase Restaurant Group, the team behind Niku Steakhouse and Dumpling Time, among others.
French food at Verjus
Explore the neighborhood after checking in. Head a couple of blocks over to Verjus (550 Washington Street), the French bar by chef Michael Tusk. Reservations are suggested, bien sûr, but if you arrive close to opening at 4 p.m., it’s easy to sail into a seat at the bar or at the front window facing the Transamerica Pyramid. Settle into a glass of wine or a cocktail, paired with a light bite. The omelette au Boursin is a classic, as is the pate en croute, or even go as lo-fi as a pain et beurre — basically order anything that gives you a taste of the butter tower and a reason to gawk at it. Go for heavier dishes if you want to turn this into more of a dinner, such as with a poulet au citron, and people-watch while you sip your drink.
A slice and nightcap
If it’s before 9 p.m., and you’ve mostly been snacking, dip a block away to Outta Sight Pizza (643 Clay Street) and order a slice from the window. If you’re lucky and blessed, you could happen upon a special, such as a Beijing duck-loaded option, but otherwise all of the regulars will hit just as well. Eat at the shop — there is a TV inside, after all — or take it on the go up Columbus Avenue. Head to Jack Kerouac Alley, where you can eat your slice while staring at the art. Then head inside Vesuvio Cafe (255 Columbus Avenue) for a nightcap in this classic San Francisco bar. While away the time on the second floor, which features views onto the street or toward the bar, or mix it up with locals crowding into the ground floor. If you’d rather stick to the hotel, the Third Floor Terrace is a worthy pre-bedtime stop for one last cocktail on the deck. There are plenty of fire pits to stay cozy despite the fog, and in the evenings, sometimes wild parrots chatter nearby.
SATURDAY
Croissants at Parachute Bakery
First things first: coffee and croissants. Any true San Franciscan knows that pastries are a competitive sport, so go to the latest entrant into the Viennoisserie fray: Parachute Bakery (1 Ferry Building). It’s a chance to try pastries that lean into seasonal produce, with options like the grilled asparagus croissant or a croissant cube loaded with ripe fruits. Add on a coffee or a sparkling tea drink to complete the package.
Browse the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market
While you’re at the Ferry Building, might as well peruse the farmers market. It’s easy to fall into a neighborhood market routine, but the Ferry Building on a Saturday morning is still a dazzling destination. Snack on fruit and vegetable samples and see how many star chefs you can spot picking up produce for the day’s menu.
Dim sum lunch at City View Restaurant
Climb toward the Dragon Gate (Grant Avenue and Bush Street) to visit Chinatown. Head north on Grant Avenue toward City View (33 Walter U Lum Place), which moved to a new location, swapping the white tablecloths and classic carts for a modern space with jade green booths. It’s still some of the best dim sum in the city, with explosive soup dumplings, juicy shrimp har gow, and crispy crab claws.
Wander through Chinatown and North Beach
Continue strolling under the colorful lanterns along Grant Avenue and start ducking into shops. Highlights include eating your fortune at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory (56 Ross Alley), experiencing tea traditions at Red Blossom Tea Company (831 Grant Avenue), or upgrading your wok at the Wok Shop (718 Grant Avenue).
Then spill out into the checkered tablecloths and Italian pride of North Beach. Now’s the moment to restock on salami at Molinari Delicatessen (373 Columbus Avenue) or seriously consider a hand-painted espresso mug at Biordi Art Imports (412 Columbus Avenue).
Irish coffee at the Buena Vista
If you’re fading in the afternoon, it’s fair to stop for a classic cappuccino at Caffè Greco (423 Columbus Avenue). But as long as we’re playing tourist, keep rolling down the hill to the Buena Vista (2765 Hyde Street) and belly up to the bar for an iconic Irish coffee.
Dinner at Scoma’s
Real ones know to dodge all the tourist traps in Fisherman’s Wharf and skip straight down the dock toScoma’s (1965 Al Scoma Way). The “Lazy Man’s” Cioppino is brimming with shellfish yet completely free of crab shells. Nobody has to crack their own crab on staycation. Nobody.
Ride the cable car
Go full tourist and hop on the cable car at the corner of Hyde and Beach streets. It’s possible to tag your usual Clipper card. Yes, it costs $9, but look, it’s a special treat for staycation. Ride over the hill and back to that pillowy soft hotel bed.
SUNDAY
Brunch at Zazie
For some people, it’s not a staycation without eggs Benedict. Slide into the sunny back patio atZazie (941 Cole Street), where there are no hard decisions before breakfast. It’s possible to get one, two, or three eggs, stacked on Dungeness crab or smoked salmon. And add on a single buttermilk pancake, for good measure.
The de Young Museum and Golden Gate Park
Take a stroll intoGolden Gate Park, that playground of gardens and museums. Hit any attractions you haven’t ticked off your SF bucket list yet. Or it’s always worth revisiting thede Young (50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive) for special exhibitions. At the time of writing, there’s a fabulous pharaoh exhibit exploring 3,000 years of history opening on Saturday, August 1.
Pizza and portafoglios at Sforno Pizzeria Napoletana
If the pancake has worn off, it might be time for… more carbs and a cute neighborhood to unwind in. Head over to Sforno Pizzeria Napoletana (514 Octavia Street) for a pizza or portafoglio, the restaurant’s “street pizza” that is a portable, folded pizza made for eating while walking. Don’t bother walking, however; if there are no free seats, park yourself at Patricia’s Green to eat before heading over to Anina (482 Hayes Street) for cocktails or Birba (458 Grove Street) for wine.
Soak at Kabuki Springs & Spa
If self-care is calling your name, enough with the walking: Staycation calls for a trip to the spa. Soak tired feet in the springs at Kabuki Springs & Spa (1750 Geary Boulevard), the city’s longtime favorite public bathhouse. There are hot pools, cold plunges, steam rooms, and saunas. Make sure to check the schedule for men’s, women’s, and all-gender days, and book ahead for Eastern or Western massages.
Sourdough from Jane the Bakery
Like any good tourist visiting San Francisco, the souvenir of choice is sourdough. Thankfully, whenever you stagger out of the spa, you’ll only be a couple of blocks away from one of the best bakeries in the city. Swing byJane the Bakery (1881 Geary Boulevard) for a loaf of classic sourdough, and savor the staycation memories on toast all week.
