Owner and chef Emmanuel Galvan founded his pop-up Bolita Masa as a study in masa, using rare heirloom corn varietals to make the doughy foundations for tamales and more. The legions of fans followed faithfully, eating up Galvan’s creations with fervor and ordering masa and tortillas to bring home. Galvan eventually took over the former Standard Fare space in Berkeley, opening Bolita Masa as a permanent restaurant in late February 2025, where the restaurant has continued to earn all sorts of attention for Galvan’s masterful use of masa and seasonal produce. It was so good, I went two days in a row.
What to order
- The first word out of my mouth when I tried the pork belly-chicharron salsa verde burro ($15) was, “wow.” Don’t skip the burros, at the very least order it for the table and share. The softness of the wheat tortilla made me want to curse out all the grocery tortillas I’ve had in my lifetime. Add in tender bits of pork and pinto beans, and the whole thing just sings with a hit of the accompanying hot sauce. Vegetarians will likely enjoy the meat-free bean and quesillo burro ($12).
- I’m a sucker for a tamal, and the current carrot masa tamal ($16) is a highlight of my meal. The carrot wasn’t at all intrusive; it added a slight sweetness that really served each bite. The salsa de frijol on top added another layer of flavor, and I nearly scarfed down the whole thing in mere minutes.
- The roasted eggplant tostada ($19) was another revelation, pairing roasted annina eggplant with somehow-pillowy, whipped ricotta. The generous swoops of ricotta served as the base for that eggplant, atop a crisp tostada, with red-tinged salsa de tijera sliding into every crevice. It’s a messy dish, so bring plenty of napkins to your table. I was happily wiping ricotta off my face and salsa off my fingers between each crunchy bite, until I sadly reached the end.
- My sneaked bites from my dining partner’s pork en salsa verde with polenta ($24) told me all I needed: This is some of the best polenta I’ve ever had. Soft, fluffy, and comforting polenta against tender pork shoulder, with some of the most verdant salsa verde I’ve had in awhile. I wanted more, but as I was distracted with the aforementioned tostada, by the time I looked back my dining partner had polished off the whole plate. I think that is a recommendation in itself.
Best for
Lunch. Yes, they open at 9 a.m., but if diners go right at 11 a.m. (or later) when the menu expands with heartier items, the best of both worlds is
available: the roasted eggplant tostada, the carrot masa tamal, and a (likely) very necessary caffeine fix.
Insider tip
This may seem obvious, but keep an eye on Cafe Bolita’s Instagram page for a look at the week’s special. It’s the extra nudge needed to visit. Case in point: caldo de pollo con chochoyotes and tetela de requeson. In addition, the restaurant collabs with pop-ups for special one-off dinners, such as My Friend Fernando and Linger Longer, so they’re worth a follow.
