I have spent the last many years chasing surf. An addiction that began at Mission Beach, one of San Diego, California's best beaches, led me to swells in Hoi An, Vietnam, bore tides in Alaska, and stationary waves in the glacial rivers of Montana. I have found myself in some pretty unique lineups. But it wasn't until last month that I ever considered Ireland as a surfing destination, and after giving it a shot, it is up there with one of my favorites to date. Something about the cold air, overcast
skies, uncrowded beaches, and local surfer charm will hook you immediately. If you are a traveler looking for a beach getaway, Ireland might be the out-of-the-box solution you never considered.
Clonakilty, one of Ireland's most charming beach towns, sits along the West Cork shoreline in the south. Cork was described to me by locals as a place where people go and never leave. Even after a brief visit, you'll see why. It's a modest town where rows of colorful buildings stand tall in the wind and traditional Irish music pours from open pub doors. The sea is near enough to smell, and the farms are close behind. But the best part? Clonakilty isn't touristy. Like much of Ireland, aside from Dublin, it is a breath of fresh Irish air compared to many of the overcrowded, high tourist-to-local ratio countries in Europe.
The number of off-the-beaten-path gems in Ireland, like the rugged, remote Island of Cape Clear, makes the country one of my most recommended travel destinations. And Clonakilty itself has a specific coastal magic that you will find in the seafood, the storefronts, and the smiles. Seriously, the Irish people are some of the friendliest you will meet.
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Where To Surf, Where To Drink, And What To Do In Clonakilty
If you only do one thing while in Clonakilty, let it be Inchydoney Beach. It lies just beyond the bay in Clonakilty, and people say it's one of the best in Ireland. Wide sand and clean waves make it a dream place to take a walk or a dive. You'll find surfers there, kids with buckets, and couples meandering at low tide. You can walk from town in just over an hour if you're feeling ambitious, but it's less than 10 minutes by car or taxi. This beach is open, quiet, clean, and Blue Flag certified. It features small breaks, making it suitable for beginners, and Inchydoney Surf School has lessons and rentals available for all ages. A 15-minute drive from Colanakilty is Long Strand Beach, 1.5 miles of walkable beach and a more advanced surf break. Bring a wetsuit; the water is not as warm as the vibes.
After a surf session, seafood is a must. Scannell's Bar is a local favorite, with seafood chowder that will blow you out of the water. They also have a lovely garden patio. Another crowd favorite is The Whale's Tail restaurant, a family-owned steakhouse with exceptional local seafood dishes. If you grab food here, make sure to head next door afterwards and pull up a stool at the Clonakilty Distillery. The building alone is worth seeing, but if you're into spirits, book a tour or sit for a tasting. If you are really looking to experience the coastal magic of the town, head to De Barra's Folk Club at night. It's legendary in the Irish music scene and has hosted everyone from Christy Moore to small-town prodigies. Expect a fiddle and a desire to dance an Irish jig.
Getting To Clonakilty And Making The Most Of It
To get here, fly into Cork Airport; it's about 50 minutes east of Clonakilty by car. Having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to explore nearby coves and villages, but there's also a reliable bus from Cork to Clonakilty that takes about 2 hours. Either way, the route winds through green hills and ocean views, so you can't go wrong.
Once you arrive, there are plenty of places to stay. If you want the full coastal retreat experience, Inchydoney Island Lodge & Spa sits close to the beach and has views for days. Rates are on the higher end, but you're paying for beach views and luxury. If you're on a tighter budget, guesthouses and bed and breakfasts are sprinkled around town.
Summer is typically the time to visit if you want warmer temps, but don't let the sunshine fool you — Irish weather flips fast. Bring a waterproof jacket, layers, and closed-toed shoes. If you are looking for the best surf, plan a winter trip, as January delivers the most consistent waves. No matter when you book your trip, the country will be lush and gorgeous, so there is no bad time to visit. It's no wonder Ireland is a favorite destination of travel expert Rick Steves. If you visit Clonakilty, you will likely feel the same way, too.
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Read the original article on Islands.
