Eleven miles southwest of Mount St. Helens, as you drive down a winding road through the Cascade Mountains between Portland and Seattle, you might be so focused on getting a view of the smoking active volcano that you miss a little lake community filled with scenic views that's mostly hidden between fir trees. Cougar, Washington is the closest community to Mount St. Helens and it is also home to one of the biggest attractions in the area: Ape Cave. One of the longest lava tubes in North America,
Ape Cave has a unique structure that was created by flowing lava and offers a pitch-black hiking experience for the true adventurer. Besides the cave, you can find activities dotted around Yale Lake, natural beauty, trails, and more. This makes Cougar a great pit stop or place to stay overnight if you are headed to Mount St. Helens for a bucket list volcano hike that is as dangerous as it is breathtaking, and a lovely addition to a weekend trip or longer exploring the area.
So what's the best way to get to this small community? There are two main options. The first option is flying into Portland's PDX airport, which is approximately an hour away by car. The other option is to drive in from the Seattle/Tacoma airport, which is further away at about two and a half hours by car, but may be worth it if you want to explore Seattle.(Check out the biggest differences between Portland and Seattle here). Either way, you'll likely need to rent a car -- unlike some of the other nearby attractions like Multnomah Falls or Mount St. Helens, Ape Cave in Cougar doesn't have regular guided tours from Portland and Seattle, and this is likely because they have a limited reservation system for visitors due to the caves' unique and delicate ecosystem.
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Activities In Cougar
You can only access Ape Caves is closed from November to mid-May. During the visiting season, you need a timed reservation and a day pass for the park; while you may very well be able to find tickets day-of, it may be a good idea to secure your tickets early. There are two different trails –- the lower cave route is easier and only three quarters of a mile one way, but the cave interior is not wheelchair accessible and has uneven footing that may be difficult for some, especially considering that you will only have headlamps to guide your way. The upper cave route is even more difficult; at one and a half miles in the cave plus another mile and a half outside to return, it also requires a climb up an eight-foot rock wall, so this is for adventurous hikers and cavers only. The cave has cold and dark conditions, so make sure to plan ahead to bring two light sources per person and warm clothing.
Aside from Ape Cave, there are trails with awesome views and plenty to enjoy at Yale Lake whether you are looking for swimming, boating, or fishing. The shortest trail in the area, Trail of Two Forests, is only a quarter of a mile long and offers an accessible boardwalk, while June Lake is a relatively short one and a half mile trail, and Lewis River Falls and Lava Canyon are longer and provide picturesque waterfall views. Lewis River Falls is the longest, while Lava Canyon has relatively even pathways but is at a steep grade for wheelchairs. At Yale Lake, the best way to experience the water is by staying at one of the campgrounds or lodging options with lake access.
Places To Stay And Eat In Cougar
If you want to go all natural and get access to the water, there are five tent camping areas nearby, and each has their own perks and amenities. You can find basic amenities like water, showers, and restrooms at most campsites, and swim beaches at options like Cougar Park and Campground. Some of these campgrounds also have boating access, and Eagle Cliff Store and Campground offers rustic cabins in addition to tent camping, while Cougar RV Park and Campground is the only place in Cougar with RV hookups.
Beyond the rustic options there is also Lone Fir Resort, which offers accommodations with more creature comforts. You can expect a more hotel-like experience with cabins and rooms with private bathrooms, heat, and electricity, along with other standard hotel amenities. There is also a pool and a restaurant at the resort, and even some spa services. Beyond the resort, Anderson Lodge also offers a handful of accommodations just eight minutes away in Ariel, and there are a handful of nearby private home rentals. The dining options are limited, but Lone Fir Cafe and Cougar Bar and Grill are both highly rated and will likely meet most people's needs for a quick bite. There are two small stores to service many of your needs if you are camping. If you're looking for a cozy and quiet place to stay and relax for your trip, Cougar might be just the ticket, and if you're looking for more places to explore in the area, it's worth checking out this picturesque heart-shaped lake in the Pacific Northwest that survived America's most deadly eruption.
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