The Umpqua tribespeople once roamed the wilds of America's Pacific Northwest, particularly around their namesake river valley in southwestern Oregon. For thousands of years, they lived off the land, and today their descendants, known as the Cow Creek Band of Umpqua Indians, still see themselves as protectors of the area's forests, trails, and rivers. The land they preside over is called the Umpqua National Forest, on the western slopes of Oregon's Cascade Mountains, which covers almost one million
acres of protected land and is one of the prettiest wilderness areas in the state.
Whitewater rapids and tumbling falls, thick woodlands home to foraging black bears, lakeside trails primed for hikers, and rocky outcrops perfect for climbing — it's a real playground for adventure travelers fortunate enough to find themselves in this ancient tribal land. With 20 established routes, the forest's Acker Rock area offers some truly rewarding rock climbing. Even more routes are found in the Redman's Tooth and Limpy Rock areas. Perhaps the best climbing spot of them all is a pair of craggy pinnacles surveying the North Umpqua River from a height of around 280 feet.
Called the Old Man and Old Woman, presumably because they appear both aged and worthy of respect, their summits provide some of the best views of the Umpqua National Forest. Furthermore, the forest they call home is less than three hours by car from Portland, which was recently anointed the quietest city in the country. All of this adds up to a feasible day trip from the coffee capital of America, meaning you'll be well-caffeinated by the time you arrive.
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Climbing Old Man And Old Woman
Intrepid climbers have been ascending Old Man and Old Woman for more than 60 years. The first successful attempt at a Tyrolean traverse on the pinnacles, a technique allowing climbers to cross a gap by moving along a rope connecting two points, occurred in 1980. But just because it's a well-trodden climbing route doesn't mean it's easy. There are four routes here, ranging from moderate to challenging ascents, with the 160-foot Dilley's Delight being favored by many climbers.
Sport climbers, however, may prefer a challenging 260-foot ascent up the Old Man pinnacle, known as "The Prize." Just note that rappelling from either pinnacle requires at least two 165-foot ropes, and climbers should brace for strong winds on the exposed rock face.
If you'd prefer to stay overnight in the area, there are dozens of campgrounds in Umpqua National Forest. Boulder Flat Campground is located on the banks of the North Umpqua River, with access to trout fishing, trailheads, and hunting tracks. Or, for something a bit more comfortable, consider staying at Umpqua's Last Resort, a glamping area not far from America's deepest lake.
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