For an alpine escape that feels like stepping into a fairy tale, you'll find a valley in Italy's South Tyrol area. Known as Val di Funes, or Villnöss in German, it stretches for about 15 miles and is part of the Dolomite Mountains. Here, you'll find your view is shaped by stunning meadows and forests that go to the base of the Odle/Geisler group. These mountains form a noticeable contrast to the calmness in the valley, with jagged peaks that rise into the sky. The name "Odle" is from the local language,
meaning "needles," which is an accurate way to describe them.
The valley runs from east to west, starting in the wider Valle Isarco and ending at the entrance of the Puez-Odle Nature Park, an unfathomably beautiful destination full of mountain trails. The area has kept a quiet feel and focuses on sustainable visits as part of the "Alpine Pearls" network. When you travel through this breathtaking valley, you'll see the main villages are Tiso, San Pietro, and Santa Maddalena. Another fun fact is that they all have both Italian and German names, which shows the region's bilingual culture.
You've likely seen some famous pictures of the valley and the small churches of Santa Maddalena (Church of St. Magdalena) and St. Johann in Ranui, with the Odle peaks right behind them. This blend of a calm foreground with massive mountains is the classic image of Val di Funes. When you visit, you may find yourself wanting to take things a little slower to enjoy the scenery, go hiking, and snap some pictures. While in the area, why not also enjoy the Cammino Retico, a scenic trail where you can find hidden, untouristed towns.
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Hiking The Trails Of Val Di Funes And Enjoying The Festivals
When you're in Val di Funes, your main activity will likely be hiking, and you'll find plenty of trails for all levels. You won't even need to avoid wearing shorts during these treks in Italy. You can take the popular Adolf Munkel Trail, which goes along the base of the Odle peaks and passes by alpine huts like Geisleralm, where you can stop for a bite to eat. For a different view, you can take the Santa Maddalena Panoramaweg, which gives you great views of the valley and that picturesque church from the hills.
If you visit in the winter, you can go snowshoeing on many of the trails that start from the Zannes/Zans area. For a family-friendly trip, there's also a small ski lift in Santa Maddalena, which is great for everyone. You can also check out the valley's "Slow Food Travel" scene as a way to connect with local farmers and try some authentic food.
You might even get to see the "Almabtrieb," a festival in late September where the town celebrates the return of cattle from the pastures up in the mountains. You'll see cows decorated with flowers and bells, and you can taste some traditional food and jam out to live music. There's also the Lamb Weeks event, which is all about dishes made from the local spectacled sheep. For an exploration of the region's geology, you can check out the Tiso Mineralogical Museum, which has a great collection of geodes with amethyst inside that were found right in the area. If you want a little adventure, you can even go on a guided trip to find some of these stones for yourself.
Where To Stay And Eat Around Val Di Funes
For a place to stay in Val di Funes, you'll mostly find family-run guesthouses and farm accommodations that give you a real feel for the area. Inside the valley, you can check out places like Hotel Fines in Santa Maddalena or the more modern Viel Nois Guest House in San Pietro. For a higher-end resort, the town of Bressanone (about 10 miles away) has spots like Forestis Dolomites and My Arbor.
The food you'll eat is all about the local products. Try the dishes with meat from the Villnösser Brillenschaf (spectacled sheep) and Graues Geisler Rind (or Grey Alpine cattle). Go to a restaurant like Pitzock in San Pietro for tasty Tyrolean food, or stop at one of the alpine huts like Geisleralm or Gampen Alm for meals like dumplings, Shepherd's Macaroni, or a hearty lamb chop. There's also a small wine scene in the valley, which focuses on high-altitude white grapes like Kerner and Müller-Thurgau. There aren't any big wineries here, but you can still try the local offerings at one of the shops or even buy them straight from the farms.
When you're planning your trip, the closest big airports are Innsbruck Airport (INN) in Innsbruck, Austria, which is about 62 miles away, and Verona Valerio Catullo Airport (VRN) in Verona, Italy, around 119 miles away. The easiest way for you to get to Val di Funes is by car, but the best method of getting around in the valley itself is using the public bus system. Your rides can even be free if you get the DolomitiMobil Card from your hotel, making it quite easy to check out different parts of the valley.
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