First, A Quick Dip into the Festival
Before we talk drinks, you have to understand the party. Held annually on June 24, Sao Joao is the feast of St. John the Baptist. While the rest of the Christian world marks his birth, Goa turns it into a full-blown water festival. Locals, wearing crowns
of flowers and fruits called 'kopels,' sing, dance, and plunge into overflowing wells, streams, and ponds. It’s a symbolic baptism, a washing away of the old and a welcome to the new monsoon season. This exuberant celebration is fueled by a few iconic, potent local beverages that are as much a part of the tradition as the well-jumping itself. To drink at Sao Joao is to taste the very spirit of Goa.
Feni: The Undisputed King
You can't talk about Goan drinks without starting with Feni. This isn't just a spirit; it's a cultural emblem, so integral to the state's identity that it has a Geographical Indication (GI) status, just like Champagne in France. There are two main types: coconut Feni and cashew Feni. During Sao Joao, the cashew variant takes center stage. Made from the fermented juice of the cashew apple, Feni is a famously potent spirit with a strong, pungent aroma and a uniquely fruity, slightly astringent taste that can be an acquired taste for the uninitiated. At the festival, it’s often drunk neat or with a splash of Limca (a lemon-lime soda) and a slice of lime. It’s the social lubricant that powers the singing and gives revelers the liquid courage to take the plunge.
Urrack: The Seasonal Secret
If Feni is the king, Urrack is the crown prince of the monsoon. Urrack is the first distillation of cashew juice—a lighter, fresher, and less alcoholic spirit than its powerful sibling, Feni, which is double-distilled. Its biggest appeal is its fleeting nature; Urrack is only available for a few months during the harvest and early monsoon season, making it the signature drink of Sao Joao. It has a cloudy appearance and a bright, fruity, and much smoother profile than Feni, with a pleasant tang from the cashew apple. Locals cherish Urrack and typically mix it with lemonade, a pinch of salt, and a slit green chili for a sweet, sour, and spicy kick. Finding a glass of fresh Urrack during Sao Joao feels like you’ve been let in on Goa's best-kept seasonal secret.
Modern Cocktails and Fresh Juices
While tradition runs deep, modern Goa has embraced the craft cocktail movement. During Sao Joao, many bars and pop-ups get creative, using Feni and Urrack as a base for inventive drinks. You might find an Urrack mojito muddled with fresh mint or a Feni cocktail infused with kokum, a sour local fruit that gives a beautiful ruby hue and tart flavor. For those who prefer to skip the alcohol but not the festive spirit, the options are just as vibrant. Freshly squeezed fruit juices are everywhere. Look for bright red kokum sherbet, a classic Goan cooler, or freshly blended juices from seasonal fruits like mango and pineapple. These non-alcoholic drinks, often served from stalls alongside festival food, offer a pure, sweet taste of the region's bounty.
