A New Culinary Era
Ahmedabad's culinary landscape has undergone a significant transformation, particularly since 2020. A notable shift involves kitchens moving away from
a strict adherence to 'Gujarati-fy' all dishes. This means authentic preparations of regional specialties, like a Benne Dosa with sambhar tasting closer to its Karnataka origins, or pasta no longer being automatically sweetened and spiced. A new generation of Amdavadis, many with international exposure, are now more receptive to experiencing cuisines in their original forms. This evolution is exemplified by restaurants like Sora, which delves into Peruvian and Asian fusion, and Sahtain, focusing on North African and Levantine fare. Adding to this dynamic is Vyanj, situated within The Primo complex, which aims not for strict authenticity but a creative reinterpretation of established tastes. Together, these establishments underscore Ahmedabad's burgeoning and ambitious culinary aspirations.
Chef Saurabh's Vision
At the helm of Vyanj's kitchen is Chef Saurabh Udinia, a Delhi native whose culinary journey began at IHM Pusa. His extensive experience includes working with prominent restaurant groups like Zorawar Kalra, contributing to brands such as Farzi Cafe and Masala Library. Further honing his skills, he moved to Singapore to join Revolver, an experimental, Michelin-starred Indian restaurant. It was during his tenure at Revolver that Chef Udinia developed a profound appreciation for the central role of heat in cooking. He became fascinated by how varying temperatures and diverse techniques could dramatically alter ingredients, leading to unexpected and delightful outcomes. This philosophical underpinning now deeply influences the menu at Vyanj, emphasizing that Indian cuisine doesn't always require heavy spicing or reliance on traditional ingredients like paneer. Instead, the focus is on allowing the inherent qualities of the ingredients themselves to take center stage, speaking for themselves through carefully considered preparation.
Playful Beginnings
The dining experience at Vyanj commences with a gentle yet intriguing series of dishes. The Tender Corn Bisque, a nod to Goan patal bhaji, is presented with a delicate corn puff and a vibrant streak of chilli oil, offering familiar flavors in an elevated form. Following this is the Burrata and Papadum, arguably the most whimsical creation on the menu. Here, creamy Italian burrata is artfully combined with chutneys prepared tableside, infused with Maharshtrian ghati masalas. This delightful mixture is then served alongside an assortment of five distinct papad varieties, ranging from the traditional Banarasi aloo papad and South Indian rice versions to an adventurous charcoal and sago papad. This dish masterfully merges the comforting familiarity of street food, akin to chaat, with the engaging interactivity of a chip-and-dip platter.
Street Food Reimagined
References to beloved street food classics reappear throughout the menu, offering a contemporary twist. The Hass Avocado Bhel is a prime example, featuring Wayanad avocados tossed with puffed black rice and a vibrant beetroot gel. This dish cleverly retains the characteristic crunchy texture of traditional bhel while introducing the mellow creaminess of avocado, creating a harmonious balance of sensations. Chef Udinia's pronounced fascination with the transformative power of fire is evident in dishes like the Bhatti Broccoli. This preparation involves broccoli charred to perfection in a tandoor, subsequently adorned with a light almond korma espuma (foam) and finished with a nutty crumble. Broccoli, often relegated to a secondary role in Indian cuisine, is here elevated to a surprising and satisfying centerpiece, showcasing its inherent deliciousness.
Earthy & Regional Notes
Further exploration of deep, earthy flavors is found in the Tandoori Gucchi. This dish features Kashmiri morels generously stuffed with mushrooms, accompanied by a delicate saffron malai and striking crisp lotus root. It offers a profound umami experience. Another highlight is the Grilled Asparagus, which is artfully coated in a flavorful pepper-fry butter and a potent gunpowder spice blend. This is served alongside a crisp ragi papad, adding a delightful textural contrast. Subtle regional Indian inspirations are woven into several offerings. The Potato Madra, drawing from Himachali cuisine, is slow-cooked in a yogurt base with hing and garlic, building a rich flavor profile without overpowering the primary ingredient. For a comforting yet refined option, the Seasonal Greens Saag, prepared with Rajasthani gatta and missi roti, presents familiar flavors in a cleaner, more elegantly presented format.
Hearty Dishes Reborn
Even the more substantial dishes at Vyanj are approached with a spirit of reinterpretation, ensuring they remain vegetarian without sacrificing depth. The Awadhi Shrooms, for instance, are cooked in a rich mushroom-based nihari jus and served with a spicy laccha paratha. This dish successfully captures the slow-cooked, umami-laden essence of the classic Mughlai preparation. This innovative approach allows diners to enjoy the complex flavors typically associated with meat-based dishes, presented in a wholly vegetarian context, demonstrating a sophisticated understanding of flavor development and ingredient potential.
Innovative Beverages
The drinks menu at Vyanj mirrors the kitchen's inventive ethos, albeit within the constraints of a dry state. Spearheaded by Sanyog Nikharge, Primo's head mixologist, the beverage program masterfully utilizes Indian nostalgia as a thematic inspiration. The Vyanj Brew ingeniously transforms masala chai into a cocktail, crowned with an airy Parle-G foam, evoking a universally recognized Indian childhood memory. The Kaapi Martini takes cues from South Indian filter coffee, skillfully combining coffee, jaggery, and coconut water to create a drink that echoes the profile of an espresso martini without directly replicating it. A particularly curious offering is the Biryani, presented as a drink. It is constructed using cryo-filtered biryani essence, balanced with apricot brine, and finished with a 'raita air,' remarkably capturing the aromatic essence of biryani in liquid form.
Sweet Endings
The dessert selection at Vyanj leans towards comforting indulgence, offering creative interpretations of familiar favorites. The Churro and Jhajhariya presents a delightful pairing of corn rabdi with a doughnut-like churro, enhanced with pistachios for added texture and flavor. Serradura, a Portuguese dessert commonly enjoyed in Goa, is reimagined as a sphere of condensed milk, artfully dusted with malt biscuit crumbs and finished with a bright blueberry compote. These sweet finales provide a satisfying conclusion to the meal, continuing the restaurant's theme of reimagining classic tastes with a unique Vyanj touch.
Ambiance and Social Harmony
Despite its experimental approach to cuisine, Vyanj successfully understands and caters to the social dining rhythms of Ahmedabad. The restaurant is entirely vegetarian, contributing to its broad appeal. The ambiance is decidedly upscale, featuring Italian marble and a sophisticated, muted color palette of gold, beige, and maroon that extends across furnishings and cutlery. Even with its fine-dining stature, Vyanj thoughtfully provides ample large tables, accommodating the typical Gujarati and Marwari family gatherings common on weekends. As these families increasingly opt for dishes like bhatti broccoli and tandoori gucchi over more conventional choices, they witness the ingredients, such as broccoli and mushrooms, confidently expressing their inherent grassy, earthy flavors and textures, thereby expanding the comforting landscape of Indian dining.
