Reaching the Isles
Your journey to the Isles of Scilly begins with a deliberate choice, as this remote archipelago off England's southwest tip isn't a destination you simply
stumble upon. Advance booking is essential for the spectacular, albeit short, transfers. You can opt for a twin-prop plane or a helicopter from Penzance, offering breathtaking aerial views of the islands. Alternatively, a three-hour ferry journey provides a more leisurely approach, often accompanied by playful dolphins and navigating through waters of astonishing clarity. This initial travel experience sets the tone for the pilgrimage, rewarding you with a landscape adorned with exotic palms, vibrant sea thrift in shades of lipstick pink, and striking blue agapanthus flowers, all set against a backdrop of windswept, minimalist roads. Once you arrive, especially beyond the main island of St Mary's, you'll find that cars are a rarity on the other four inhabited outposts – Tresco, Bryher, St Martin's, and St Agnes. This lack of vehicular traffic fosters a daily rhythm of exploration and island hopping, where boat departures are intricately linked to tidal patterns. The inter-island crossings are swift, usually mere minutes on agile jetboat ferries with evocative names, making spontaneous exploration effortless. Visitors are drawn here not only for the chance to discover coves where puffins congregate but also to experience some of the darkest, most star-filled night skies found in the UK.
Day One: Tresco's Treasures
Begin your island adventure by arriving on Tresco, perhaps via a scenic helicopter flight that offers a stunning perspective of the islands encircled by ever-deepening turquoise waters, giving the impression of being closer to the equator than to mainland England. As you land on the southern part of the island, you'll be greeted by abundant displays of agapanthus, just a taste of the subtropical botanical wonders that Tresco holds. A short stroll leads you to the magnificent Tresco Abbey Gardens, an expansive 17-acre horticultural marvel. This garden showcases a diverse collection of flora, including ancient-looking New Zealand flame trees and tall spires of Canary Island Echium with their distinctive blue blooms, alongside two thousand other exotic species from the southern hemisphere and subtropics, all thriving in Tresco's unique microclimate. For your afternoon, you have several delightful options. You can relax with a traditional Cornish cream tea at the Garden Cafe, or pack a picnic to enjoy on one of the island's many beaches, perhaps accompanied by a small bottle of Abbey Garden Gin, infused with botanicals grown on the estate. Apple Tree Bay, offering a half-mile stretch of pristine sand meeting the clear waters of Tresco Flats, is just one of many idyllic spots. To experience the island's varied terrain, consider a six-and-a-half-mile loop that traverses granite-strewn heathland in the north and a verdant mosaic of gardens to the south. Cycling is an excellent way to explore Tresco, as its small size and absence of traffic make it a cyclist's paradise, with bike hire readily available at New Grimsby Quay on the western coast. As evening approaches, immerse yourself in the unique dining experience at The Ruin Beach Cafe, situated near Old Grimsby Quay on the east coast, within the atmospheric remnants of a smuggler's cottage. This establishment, featuring a wood-fired kitchen and tables set directly on the sand, serves some of the finest local ingredients, from plump, grilled sardines to slow-roasted vegetables with confit garlic aioli, and succulent grilled lobster. It's worth noting that accommodation on the islands tends to book up months in advance. If Tresco is fully booked, neighboring Bryher is just a five-minute ferry ride away, and the hotels on St Mary's are a 20-minute crossing.
Day Two: Island Hopping Exploration
Dedicate your second day to the exhilarating experience of island hopping across the archipelago, starting with Bryher, the smallest of the inhabited islands, covering just over half a square mile. Here, you can wander along pebbly pathways, navigate clifftop trails, and explore sand-dusted roads framed by ferns and traditional drystone walls adorned with lichen and intriguing cabbage plants. Keep an eye out for roadside honesty boxes stocked with local artisanal products such as Scilly Chilli Jam, Veronica Farm Fudge, and handcrafted driftwood items. For more substantial artistic finds, head to Great Par Beach on the island's southwest coast, where oil paintings capturing the vivid turquoise seas, silver sands, and solitary yachts adorn the entirety of a gig-shed studio. At Church Quay on the eastern side, marvel at the stained-glass windows of All Saints Church, which depict a charming scene of paddling puffins. For refreshment, make your way to a local eatery just 10 minutes away, a well-loved fishmonger, deli, and cafe run by the third generation of the Pender family. Their culinary creations include hearty crab sandwiches served on thick bread and impressive shellfish platters, best savored on their terrace. In the afternoon, take a ferry to St Martin's, renowned for its exceptional beaches backed by heather-clad cliff paths and dunes tufted with marram grass. You can venture across a tidal causeway to White Island to the north, discover rock pools at Lawrence's Bay along the island's western edge, or enjoy snorkeling in the sheltered bays surrounding southern Par Beach. Here, rentals are available, allowing you to observe seals drifting amongst extensive kelp forests. The abundance of marine treasures, from smooth pebbles to the elusive puffins, are ingeniously transformed into exquisite gold and silver jewelry at a B Corp-certified workshop housed in a granite barn in the western Lower Town harbor. Perched on the hilltop above this, an establishment resembling a pirate's hideout serves delights like locally distilled SC Dogs rum and flavorful crab flatbreads. Settle into their cliff-edge garden for breathtaking views of the receding tides towards the Eastern Isles. As evening approaches, return to Bryher to witness a spectacular sunset at the island's most westerly hotel. Its suites offer serene views of gardens leading to sandy coves or, to the west, dramatic rock formations battered by Atlantic swells. The hotel's contemporary art-filled bar overlooks these wave-swept stacks, creating a mesmerizing ambiance for enjoying a sundowner. The hotel's restaurant is the only establishment in the archipelago to have earned three AA Rosettes, offering a refined menu that includes grilled Cornish fish, rich bouillabaisse, and West Country venison.
Top Island Adventures
For an unparalleled maritime experience, embark on an excursion aboard the Jekamanzi, a 15-meter Bermudan cutter helmed by Skipper Paul Lewis. This vessel, whose name means 'dragonfly' in Zulu, can depart from any island and has a history of trans-Atlantic voyages, demonstrating its seaworthiness and speed. It's the perfect craft for exploring seal-inhabited skerries and rocky sea stacks that are often populated by puffins. Paul, intimately familiar with his native islands, has a knack for finding secluded, footprint-free bays where he prepares lunches featuring freshly caught lobster or locally reared beef. You can even try your hand at sailing techniques like tacking and jibing under his expert guidance before gliding into a sunset painted in soft pinks and blues, perhaps with a glass of champagne. For those seeking an overnight adventure, the boat offers chic cabins accommodating up to four people, complete with opportunities for stargazing. Alternatively, for a more grounded experience, consider camping or hiring a bell tent at Troytown Farm on St Agnes, the southernmost inhabited island. This beachfront campsite boasts a pub, cafe, and shop selling produce from the farm, including their famous small-batch ice cream in unique flavors like rose geranium and cider sorbet. Kayak rentals are also available for exploring nearby islets. For wine enthusiasts, a visit to St Martin's coastal winery is a must. Here, you can walk among grapevines, which are diligently pollinated by hummingbird hawk-moths and buff-tailed bumblebees. The vineyard tastings, hosted by owners Holly and James Faulconbridge, feature a range of wines, including stone-fruity rosés, delicate whites, and rich, toffee-plummy reds. Back on Bryher, head to Hut 62, a beachside spot for kayak rentals. This location, backed by picturesque cow fields, offers opportunities to paddle around Green Bay and the surrounding rocky islets. The kayaks are equipped with transparent bottoms, enhancing the aquatic viewing experience as you glide over jade-colored seagrass and white sandy bottoms. Even on St Mary's, the most developed island, adventure awaits. The Garrison Walk is a delightful one-and-a-half-mile circular coastal route starting near the quay in Hugh Town. This path winds its way across the island's southwestern peninsula, passing the remarkably preserved Star Castle with its 16th-century fortifications and historic gun batteries. The trail continues along paths bordered by dense hedges and dramatic clifftops battered by the Atlantic winds.
Planning Your Trip
To commence your island-hopping adventure, the most convenient travel option from London is the train to Penzance, with fares starting from £116 for a return journey. From Penzance, you have several choices for reaching the Isles of Scilly. Isles of Scilly Skybus offers flights to St Mary's and Tresco from Land's End, Newquay, and Exeter between March and October, with return tickets priced from £286. Alternatively, Skybus also operates ferries from Penzance to St Mary's during the same period, with return fares from £204. For inter-island transport, the Scillonian III ferry connects Penzance to St Mary's from March to November, with return tickets starting at £359. Once you are within the archipelago, scheduled ferry crossings are available from April to October, operated by and connecting all the islands. It is important to note that during the winter months, most boat services require advance booking. For accommodation, consider staying at The Bell Inn on St Mary's, offering cozy rooms with a charming cottage aesthetic and the soothing sounds of the Atlantic Ocean. Prices start from £264 per night for bed and breakfast. For further information and to plan your visit, the official tourism website is a valuable resource.
